Long term projects can be such a funny thing. I initially bolted this route to clean and suss back in 2010. I tried it on and off over the years but could never figure out a viable sequence that gave me any hope of a send. This year, out of the blue, I decided to throw my left knee up on the rail feature and boom. A relatively easy sequence emerged, and I finished it off a week later. Amazing how something that felt impossible for years suddenly becomes very very feasible.

Initially tried as a boulder problem, this route shed an enormous flake which made free-climbing safer but harder. Climb into the rail feature, and do a long move to a flat edge. This move is made much less strenuous by using a left knee pad. Dynamic climbing on big holds leads to a single bolt anchor with a biner.

Samson Ale

Chocolate Stout

I.P.A.

Frosted Fracture

Harmonic Resonance

Hefeweizen

Low Tide

Blonde Note

Corona

Kona Blend

Open Project

Bartles & Jaymes

Duff

Dirty Diet Coke

Hard Cider

Climb easy terrain with feet on a ramp/ledge. A reachy crux back right at bolt #3 is followed by tricky edge climbing to the anchor.

Do the same start as

Blonde Note

, but move left into underclings and a right hand sidepull. The crux is moving past 3rd bolt on gastons and pinches (V10/11). There are committing but easier moves to the chains.

This is the juggy "warm-up" for the The Beach. Climb easy ledges to the base of the steep wall. Jugs lead to a reachy move above the 3rd bolt. Continue on big moves with big holds to the anchor.

Climb ledgey terrain to the first bolt. Hard lie-backing leads to the 3rd bolt. Continue on jugs to a jump/reach above the 4th bolt. The crux comes in a left sloper/lip traverse with a mantle. There is a tricky/awkward final move to reach the chains.

Easy moves lead to a hard jump/dyno at the 3rd bolt. Move back left at the 4th bolt for the final crimpy deadpoint.

Climb up the kickwall, and clip 2nd bolt off a flake. The crux comes above the 3rd bolt on edges that are all turned the wrong way.

Lowtide starts in the same gully as

Corona

but instead traverses right and over the water. Step off the ground onto a diagonal seam feature. Move into underclings around bolt two and a large jug out left to clip bolt 3. From here, move right through pinches, slopers, and edges on a pretty face.

If only this climb was longer. The belay stance might be underwater during parts of spring and summer. It is similar in grade to

I.P.A.

but different in style.

From the kick-slab, start just left of the bolt line, and climb back right past two bolts. The crux involves a long deadpoint above the 4th bolt.

This is an awesome route maybe 50 yards from the majority of the climbing at The Beach. It is less steep but more technical than most other routes at the Beach. Start off with a big, slopey jug rail, and move into a beta intensive crux around bolt 3. Once over the roof, the climb backs off and becomes much more juggy. This is a stellar route, and with a little more traffic, it will be of the same quality as other classics at this crag.

It may help to have a big reach through the roof.

This is the last, obvious line at The Beach.

Start on a black rail feature, and make big moves to a incut at the 3rd bolt. The crux is probably getting above bolt 3 to better holds.

This is the easiest route at The Beach. Clip the first bolt, start on the sloping shelf with the feet and the obvious hands; reach to slopers and than make the crux move to the higher/left most (better) crimp next to the second bolt, clip with the left hand and make the final hard move to the juggy/ledge, clip and keep it together to the anchor (good hold under to the left and above the chains).

"Can't Get Enough of That Wonderful Duff", much like Homer's beer, this route is cheap and sleezy, but if you enjoy the weird "Beach style" of mini-routes, it is worth your time.

For full points, you must start on the white jug below bolt #1 and keep feet off the slab/ledge. From here, some cool tension climbing on edges takes you a little right before back left to a big move to a jug below bolt #3. One more thuggy sequence takes you up to the anchor.

Climb a short, black corner to reach the steep wall. The crux comes between bolts 3 and 4 with a powerful finish.

Climb the blocky corner move left before clipping the final bolt, then move back right to the chains. It is a great warm-up!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Beach