North Chasm Crack

Unknown Chimney

Learn to Fly

Wild at Heart

The Nagual, aka: Moonflower

Seams to Me

Separated Reality

Flight Simulator

Barney Rubble

Off The Wall

Quest for Glory

Thrust is a Must

Trust is a Must

Blockbuster

Space Walk

Master of Disaster

South Chasm Crack

The Beak

Buster Brown

Changeling

Crackula

Kingfisher

The Perch, Right

Space Truckin'

This climb is pretty fun for the novelty alone. A progressively widening chimney finally leads to face moves at the very top. Well, for the shorties it does, at even a mere 6' in height I was able to use the back wall all the way up to get my full stem's worth. Bolts make this climb very accessible.

A good warmup for the cliff, this climb will help dial the feet a bit and provide a bit of reprieve from the relentless jamming shenanigans the rest of the area delivers.

It is a bit sporty going from the 1st to 2nd bolts, but this is also very easy terrain. The crux is some balancy knob pulling located between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

Wild at Heart follows the steep prow feature up to the arete of the spire, known as the Eagles Head. This is the obvious spire that is seen as you first approach Eagle Lake Cliff. The line starts on a good ledge that you have to scramble up to. From here, a line of closely spaced bolts leads to the summit of the spire. Follow the arete up past the roof, the crux is at the steepest part of the feature. After the bouldery crux, the climb eases up and remains on the exposed arete.

This climb starts 75' left of Off the Wall Pinnacle.

Ascend this right leaning thin crack system to the top. The initial overhanging section is the crux.

Spectacular crack just left of the right-slanting crack of "The Nagual".

A 60m rope will just get you to a ledge above the ground, from which you can easily downclimb.  Be careful.

The route can be TRd with some care - scramble up the gully a ways to the left (the second gully!).

Follow the deep chimney, right of "Space Walk".

Hard to believe this appealing looking steep hand crack wasn't climbed until the early 2000s!

This crack gets on you right away as the angle kicks back and the crack pinches down to mega thin hands before opening into a 4" or so pod that presents some difficulties.  Gear can be crispy through here so take care, maybe double up in the solid crack below.  Pulling through and up into the lower angle handcrack above sees the difficuly ease.

From the top of the little tower you'll see you're only halfway done with the route.  Set some gear, sling it long and step off left across the face, targeting the first of a three bolt line.  The slab shouldn't be a problem if you pulled the low crux, and it does take some small nuts and cams to supplement the bolts.

The obvious wide gash pretty much in the dead middle of Eagle Lake cliff.  Ominous and dank.

Choss will likely pour out of certain sections and I seem to remember a crux stem off a small root system...

From the notch between Spacewalk and Off the Wall face climb past four bolts. Rap off.

Crux pulling through a bulge on thin finger tips with thin feet. Easy to toprope after climbing Space Truckin'.

Stemming and technical face in a shallow corner leads to easier face climbing to chain anchors.

The latter half of the climb is shared with the crack, Flight Simulator, that starts to the right.

30' right of "Crackula" is a right facing corner.

Climb double cracks to a roof and follow a wide crack over the roof.

It was once said that this crack would never go free!

In 1979, Rick Cashner and Angie Morales hiked up there to check it out.

They climbed a crack, thinking it was "Space Walk". Rick thought "That wasn't that bad. What's the big deal?".

He then walked a little farther and found "Space Walk" overhanging above him. He was blown away and knew that he had to have it!

When looking up at Eagle Lake Cliff, one will notice an obvious, detatched spire on the right.

This is "Off The Wall".

"Space Walk" follows the overhanging crack on the, right facing wall to the left.

This is a short but fairly sustained right facing dihedral crack formed out of a semi-detached block. Wide hands lead to a more technical, thinner crux top out. Where you find the crux will probably depend on your strong suit. The classic bedroom refrain of "if only it were longer" fully applies to this stubby specimen.

A great freak of nature caused the chasm to form without the entire cliff falling into the lake. As it did an inner crack became exposed that is mirrored on each side of the chasm. The North being the classic.

It looks like it may be possible to either stem to the other side of the chasm or to the big chockstone belay ledge, but alas, not so!

A fun TR in summer when the main face comes into the sun. The belayer sits on a giant chock stone 1/3 down the chasm (easily reached) and lowers the climber into the always cool chasm.

The south crack is harder and not as enjoyable, as clean or continuous as the north

Start is the same as Barney Rubble.  Stem through an awkward steep section down low.  Traverse left about mid way (Barney Rubble continues straight up here in a wide crack) on some hollow flakes to the steep right facing stemming and jamming corner.  Some of the rock in the middle of this climb isn't terribly confidence inspiring, which I docked a star for, but nothing is obviously loose.  Continue up the steep corner.  Climb through a steep hanging tooth feature on thin hands (crux) to bolts/hooks at the top.  A 70 m rope works great.  Not 100% sure if you can lower with a 60m.   Be cautious with a 60 (like many routes at this cliff).

Lots of variety on this one.

Climb "Blockbuster to the roof, step left and climb an overhanging fist crack.

Slightly overhanging hands and fingers to start, leads to a short but stiff crux. Easy climbing leads to thought provoking 5.8 to get to the chains.

This climbs a crack on the right of a boulder cave.

Bouldery start with one bolt to thin crack with desperate smearing.  Gear is small and a little fiddly in sections, something like a black alien protects the crux. Quality route though.

Shallow right facing corner/hand crack on the right side of the Perch.  Climb the corner/crack and then move a bit left to the short wide section at the top.  2 bolt anchor with chains/hooks on top.  There are some hollow flakes on the top half of the pitch.

This exceptional crack climb, starts in the first crack left and around the corner from "Spacewalk".  Climb this crack and corner to the top.  Lots of liebacking with great rests between several crux sections 10-15 feet long.

Description

Protection

Routes in Eagle Lake Cliff