Start as for SALT, but where the line splits, follow the line to the right, traversing through a section of thin crimps before gaining a good rail. Follow the line diagonally across the wall, following a large break, eventually working your way straight up through a large set of black varnish plates (some of which are a little hollow). One tricky move above the last bolt guards the chains. A short crux in a long enjoyable climb.

Salted Wounds

Divide and Conquer

The Rocketeer

Honeycomb

Lost

Intercontinental Breakfast

Arms Race

Disarmament

SALT

False Flag

Arms Left

Sands Trap

Leave out the Salt

Strategic Arms

Start 20 feet right of Disarmament, under a squeeze chimney. Climb the chimney with many face holds around it. At the third bolt, where the line splits, take the left bolt line (going straight up) and fight your way up and over a bulge with poor feet. Climb the slab above, and when the wall steepens, use opposing flakes and specific feet to gain an angling flake of jugs. Up in the varnish, follow the line up and slightly left, finally arriving at the high anchor. A long technical route.

Start on a flat boulder to the right of the choke in the canyon. Climb a left leaning t crack to a small shallow groove. Climb the pumpy crimpy face to the anchor above.

This climb has good movement through 2 separate crux sections.  Good rests are had, but the second crux you'll want to fire through using good footwork.

 Requires 70m rope.

 The rock is currently fragile.  Numerous thin flakes on the route that have the potential to break.  Small pebbles can rain down.  The line is to the right of the belay spot, so most rockfall will land away from the belayer.  Be careful where you step and what you pull on.  I broke off a baseball sized chunk in the first half of the climb.

 Shares anchor with Red Planet.

The start for Lost and Found are just to the left of a large boulder choking the canyon. Climb up to a large crumbly hueco. From here the two climbs split with Lost going left and Found going right. Both are great and have different styles. For Lost climb out of the hueco and pull a small bulge. Continue straight up the face using friendly pockets, huecos, and edges to a obvious slab crux. Float through the crux and continue to an anchor above the roof.

The start for Lost and Found are just to the left of a large boulder choking the canyon. Climb up to a large crumbly hueco. From here the two climbs split with Lost going left and Found going right. Both are great and have different styles.  

  For Found, climb out of the hueco and power through a blocky roof, to a left facing thin corner. Climb the corner to a small ledge to de-pump. Climb the exposed headwall above to find the anchor. Great route.

The furthest left route on the wall, on the arete left of Strategic Arms. Start on the arete proper, and at the second bolt transition onto the steep left face. Make a long thin move to gain bolt three, and then fight the pump for three move bolts, saving enough for the thin redpoint crux at the last bolt. Great rock. Cool climb.   The thirty feet below the shelf can be toproped at 5.10.

Starts forty feet right of Strategic Arms. Follow a thin, left facing corner for three bolts, and make a move up and over the bulge. Traverse left into a juggy flake, and then balance your way up the slab above. Upon arriving at the first seam, the wall steepens and the holds start to vanish. A long stab off of bad crimps and poor feet brings you to bolt number 10, but the action doesn't stop there! You've gained a massive horizontal, but no feet forces you into one of two desperate sequences. Anorexicly thin climbing through the higher wispy seam brings you to the last bolt, where (finally!) some good holds bring you to the chains. Extremely technical.

15 feet right of Leave out the Salt you will find a clean and crimpy face, with a left leaning seam around the 25 foot mark. Power through the bouldery moves to gain access to the brown varnished face above. An improbable slab move guards the anchor.

Follow Strategic Arms to where the wall steepens and the climbing gets hard. Follow the break out to the arete left and head up the slab.

The rightmost route of the crag. Climb sandy cracks, face and more sandy cracks to anchor. Needs more traffic, but could clean up.

Start just right of the large flake of SALT on crimpy face holds. Pull a small bulge. continue up the steep face and cross salted wounds. Follow up a thin right facing flake, staying climbers right of SALT and continue up and right to an anchor just below a small roof.

Climb the big corner, and where the wall steepens, continue up the awesome zig-zagging finger crack until it makes sense to pull around the overhang left. Ten more feet up a 5.6 slab to the anchor.

High above Ash Spring, up the canyon from Cold Sweat, sits an obscure classic splitter: Strategic Arms; a tall, overhanging corner set in a 100-foot tall, beautiful, black varnish wall. Another Calico crag which makes you feel like you're a million miles from everyone.

Description

Protection

Routes in Strategic Arms Wall