Scramble up a small ledge and tip-toe past choss to the first bolt.  Pull a serious of strenuous moves though three bolts on vertical multicolored rock.  Venture onwards through easier terrain to reach the cryptic roof to finish out the route. 

  While slightly diminished by the dull moderate midsection, When The Whip Comes Down is an aesthetically pleasing line with interesting moves.

When The Whip Comes Down

Throw Me a Bone

No Brainer

Cryptographer

Buried Alive

Bone Spur

Jug or Not

Master Blaster

Funny Bone

Tibial Pursuit

It's A Wanderful Life

Pro Bone-O

Layed to Rest

Tombstone Tourist

Sweeping Beauty

Bad To The Bone

Chilled to the Bone

Nail in My Coffin

Unearth Thee Delights

Bone Ami

Grave Robber

Grave New World

Six Feet Under

Prince Brushing

Little Trundle Of Joy

Soaked to the Bone

Modern Relic

Drag Queen LaTufa

Skeleton Key

While this route looks like a pile, it provides a great training ground for technicians looking to hone their craft. Comprised of a series of complex, delicate sequences this route stays on you, climaxing just prior to the anchors. The rock is surprisingly solid for the Boneyard. 

Bad To The Bone can be located by dropping down and around a multi-colored corner with a notable lip sixty feet up. This is When The Whip Comes Down. Fifteen feet to the left is Bad to the Bone. The welded shut anchor is visible from the ground. There is a pronounced undercling between the first and second bolt.

Technical and pumpy climbing leads to fun climbing on big holds

70M ROPE REQUIRED.  This route has a ton of varied climbing.  Face climbing, aretes, dihedrals, laybacks, stems, even a hand jam or two and a short section of chimney.  This route has two sets of anchors so you can get off with one 70M rope by doing two rappels.  We did this climb as one long pitch.  We skipped the first bolt and used a long runner at the first anchors and also on some of the bolts above the ledge above the chimney to reduce the rope drag.  Even so the rope gets pretty heavy.  Now and then the rock is less than ideal but the quality of the climbing on the rest of the route outweighs these short sections.  Since it is new I would encourage others in the area not to climb or leave gear to the right of the start to this climb.

Climb attractive corner to crux, pulling right out of it and up easier climbing with spaced out bolts above.

This line wastes no time, greeting suitors with blank features immediately off the deck.  Upon rising above this adversity, gingerly pull past hollow sounding rock on jugs.  Engage a second, significantly longer section of technical, near-vertical face climbing before reaching a 'Thank God' jug.  Adventure climb to the chains. 

Buried Alive is located immediately left of Bone Ami and 100ft to the right of Grave Robber.  This route can be extended into Bone Spur.

This route is a 90 foot extension of Buried Alive.  Clip a shoulder length sling into the anchors then climb up and right to the arete.  Great exposure and tricky climbing way off the ground make this climb a must do. 

  Descent.  Two rappels or lower down to the anchors you climbed past.  Pull and rap or lower the rest of the way to the ground.

The first pitch (left of Funny Bone) is the 5.9 approach to one of the better single pitches of 5.11 climbing on Lemmon. Climbing 'Funny Bone' to the anchors then traversing left to the next anchor is also an option. The start of the second pitch immediately gets your attention with technical, delicate corner moves that are hard to find on the mountain. The style changes a bit after surmounting the bulge, but the exposure and the fun don't stop until the bolts do. Most belay the second after lowering to the ledge the pitch starts on.

The best pitch at the Boneyard by far. 

  The climbing is fun, sustained, steep and airy.  

  Can be done as one pitch with a 70 meter rope.  You can then lower far enough down the slabby pitch to easily down climb, or stop at the first anchor, then pull the rope and rap.

Relatively awkward start followed by reachy, meandering line up heavily lichened face.

Varied climbing with a tricky crux, and very unique climbing at the finish.   Tunnel vision will lead to air time for those with a propensity for plumb bobbing between bolts.

70M ROPE REQUIRED A long and winding route that takes a lifetime to get up.  Really cool to do as one long pitch just be sure you are not using those silly little dogbones or the rope drag will make the top really unpleasant.  Can be done as two pitches but it is really cool to do it as one.  Be sure to use long (not quite shoulder length) draws at the two bolts below the big roof to reduce rope drag.  After the first set of anchors do not be afraid to wander way left to keep this climb in the grade.  The climb wanders way way left then up then way back to the right to surmount the roof at the right apex.  Tricky to figure out but really good when you do.  You can also do the first pitch as it is a good warm-up for the crag and is probably 10-. 

  We had two ropes so Jim fixed it and rapped off so I could lead it on the other.  If you have only one rope carry your rap device and do two raps to the ground then your buddy can do the same and clean it on the way down.

Steep climbing through a chossy-looking and fairly cryptic roof, easier middle section, and super fun overhanging headwall. 

** REQUIRES 70M ROPE***

Starts off the anchors on the first pitch of Chilled to the Bone.  Clip first bolt above belay and go straight up the corner to an anchor in the bottom of the chimney.  Tippy laybacks and tricky footwork will see you to the top.

3 cruxes with fun climbing in between.  Save some juice for the final moves.

Slightly awkward moves into a right angling dihedral and great moves into the sweet looking dihedral at the top.

70M ROPE REQUIRED!!  Super long pitch that takes 24 draws to lead .  A long draw at the first set of anchors helps reduce rope drag.  Or you can do it as a two pitch route but it is way more fun as one.  If you lead it take your rappel device as you will need to do two rappels to get down.  If your second is going to do the long pitch leave the draws up.  You can also do the first half as a warm-up or do it as a two pitch route.  it is probably 5.10.

Easy start to thin moves, move left at the bulge, stem up to anchors next to the bush.

Thin balance moves lead to some wandering to reach the ledge below the final short headwall.  You will get close to a blocky lichen covered section about half way up. Don't get sucked into it.

Pitch 1 (70ft): Access the high first bolt from the right using hollow sounding rock.  Thin face moves are punctuated by positive ledges and an interesting thumbercling.  Move right into a shallow alcove with a crack before finishing out left. 

Pitch 2 (60ft): Gear protected.

The climb on the far left side of the crag. Work up through an awkward stem across a corner and slab to an easier vertical face.

A long first pitch that has a lot of easy climbing up to a roof.  After the roof it eases up a bit then it gets interesting and sustained most of the way to the anchors.  When the angle kicks up the climbing and the rock get really good.   

  The second pitch heads up the easy chimney 15 feet or so until possible to pull on to the bolted face.  The climbing is good and finishes strong.  The exposure and position of this pitch make going to the top worthwhile.  The route is new and it will take time for the little bit of fuzz to go away.

Good holds with delicate movement to a fun crux near the middle of the route.

Mostly moderate climbing lead up to a easy section where you will work left to a low angle attactive corner that leads up and right.  Getting into this corner turns out to be harder than you might think.

Tenuous and thoughtful face climbing lead to moves over a roof.

70M rope just reaches the ground when you lower off so tie a knot in the end of it. Stiff undercling crux with thin feet leads to small roof. Easier ground above roof leads to an excellent airey finish.

Crux is high on the first pitch.  

  The climbing through the roof at the beginning of the second pitch is fabulous.  

  Even though this is one of only two routes that require gear at the Boneyard. We just couldn't bring ourselves to bolt the crack through the roof and above.  So buck up and bring in a light rack for this one.

70m rope just reaches the ground so use caution when lowering and tie a knot. Shoulder length slings on some lower draws help reduce heinous rope drag. Sustained at the grade with cruxes low, middle and high.

First 30 feet is sustained and thin.  Above roof is loose and easy.  It needs much more cleaning to be enjoyable.

The Boneyard is a great mid-mountain destination to escape the heat of summer. Several quality sport routes can be found here, from 5.9+ to 5.12-. The area shares an approach with the uber popular Ridgeline crag and can be a welcome haven from the crowded gym-like atmosphere that can occur there.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Boneyard