Overhanging jugs for 6 bolts to a powerful crimpy roof pull to a balancy finish.  A variation to the right exists after the 6th bolt, but it doesn't look as nice as going straight up.

Fear and Loathing, III

The Runaway

Makalu

The Calanque

Desert Pickle

Resin Rose

American Sportsman

Big Damage

Super Guide

Promises in the Dark

Sudden Impact

Another one with a hard start, then tricky again up at the roof.

Hard at the bottom and gets easier as you go up.

Start up some slick-looking rock with good pockets to a high first clip below a huge, white horn. Pull on some excrement-encrusted, huge jugs past a couple more bolts on steepening terrain to a very positive jug between the fourth and fifth bolts. Cop an awkward rest here and follow the handrail on the left to a reachy clip for the fifth bolt. Finish through seriously excrement-encrusted terrain to shared anchors with the route to the right, "Super Guide".  

  This route gets two stars in the Handren guide but with mandatory usage of extremely fowl-smelling excrement-encrusted holds I can't be so generous with the stars.  It's too bad because it is really fun climbing on great jugs but gagging heavily when I clipped the anchors was unpleasant.

This route begins opposite Makulu and Super Guide up in the alcove at the right end of the Wall of Confusion. The first half of the route climbs interesting features up a vertical face to a break beneath a steeper headwall. From this break, follow the left line of bolts to a bolted anchor. 

  This route has an alarming number of portable holds but it will likely improve with more traffic.

Hard and crimpy.  Crux was about midway up.  Shares anchors with American Sportsman, which can create some problems if people are doing extended toproping.  Please be considerate.

I almost want to give this 3 stars, but since the route is pretty dirty and most people aren't really into this sort of thing, I'm not sure I can in good conscience.  If you do like wide crack/chimney problems, Resin Rose should be on your Red Rocks tick list. 

  Begin in the alcove a short scramble up and right from Fear and Loathing and climb the obvious crack.  Fairly easy climbing through guano leads up into the bowels of this beast where a fixed wire and sling provide crux pro.  From here, all but the smallest of 12 year old OW aficionados will have to climb down and outwards across the bottomless maw before once again worming upwards to a thank god jug/handjam and gear.  The fall from the crux is spectacular, scary, but seemingly quite safe.  Continue more easily up the steep crack to more bird crap and an annoying anchor shared with the sport climb on the right.  Beware of sharp edges if you choose to lower (it might be better to rap).

Again, hard at the bottom and easier as you go up.  A bit of a runout on slab at the top, but just keep it together and you'll be fine.

Hard, thin start.  Gets easier after the 3rd bolt or so.

Fun jug-hauling with some short traverses on good holds.  Nice view from the top.

Similar to Desert Pickle, but a little harder.

Sunny and warm.  Crowded as it is next to the Gallery and receives much overflow.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wall of Confusion