This is the easiest route to the summit.  Stay right on the ridge for some great exposure, or drift to the left for some slab climbing.  The approach gully is obvious from the tarns below, but if you are approaching after summiting Mt. Alice, descend the SE slopes, and begin traversing south as soon as you can.  Contour around until you are just below the first high point on the ridge extending east from the Divide south of Mt. Alice.  Look for a narrow 100' 4th class gully that is choked with loose rock and delivers you to a saddle with fantastic views of the basin below.

Descend the larger gully to the NE about 150', until you can traverse east on narrow ledges to the start of the route.

West Ridge

Flight School

Flight Attendant

Start to the right of the obvious line, and climb 30 feet of

Flight Attendant

before traversing back left to the plumb line. Avoid chossy sections by climbing cracks on the right, but expect runout 5.10- terrain in places.

Rap the route.

This is the steep line to the right of

Flight School

. The cruxes are the obvious roof and steep sections above and below in the upper half of the wall. Doing both routes would make for a great day and worth the long approach.

Rap

Flight School

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pilot Mtn.