Begin on a large boulder just right of "A Good Day To Die" and climb a crack that initially arcs right. Awkward and interesting moves (5.9) lead to a small ledge with a horizontal crack. Traverse left for 10' (5.9) to a wide inverted V crack that tapers to a nice hand crack (5.9). Fun moves lead to the top. A nice warm-up for the more difficult routes in the area.

Custer's Last Stand

A Good Day to Die

The Little Big Horn

The Little Big Man

Tribal Gambling

The Flamboyant Arrow

The Last of the Gohegans

Welcome to Indian Country

Begin near the east end of the formation on a large boulder. The first two bolts are relatively close together on a vertical face with thin edges (crux). A series of small ledges with horizontals occurs after the second bolt. More steep face moves (5.10) are protected by the third bolt. Fun climbing on huecos (5.8 R/X) leads to the top. Rappel 80' to the ground. Excellent rock!

Begin at the top of a boulder with a small platform on top (Two bolt belay anchor). Clip the first bolt on a slightly overhanging face and make difficult / technical moves (12-)to a polished dish. Step up left into another dish and clip the second bolt. Continue on thin edges past two more bolts (5.11) and reach a horn at the base of a finger / hand crack. Relatively easy climbing leads to a bulging checkerboard patina face (5.9+). Small TCU's or stoppers / brass protect the final moves to the top. Exquisite rock!!

Near the center of the crag are two parallel cracks. The right hand one is rotten, steep and unclimbable near the ground and the left one reaches down to a boulder at the base. Start off the boulder and climb up and then right into the crack. A ways higher step right into the cleaner right hand crack in brown varnish and continue straight to the top. A rappel anchor is to the right on a ledge. 2 ropes (120') to the ground.

This is a striking thin crack 50 yards right of Flaming Arrow.  Scramble up to a ledge 50' off the deck, set a 3" cam, and downclimb a couple moves until you can stem over to the thin crack.  The crux is tips liebacking.  Above is a large ledge; easier climbing up patina plates leads to the anchor at the top of Flaming Arrow.

Begin just right of "Little Big Horn" in a sandy wash at the base of the crag. Bouldery moves gain a left facing dihedral with an offwidth crescent shaped crack on the right. Awkward moves (5.9) lead to a small roof with a solid thin horn above the roof. Pull the roof (5.9) and continue in the left slanting finger / hand crack surrounded by vibrant orange rock. The crack becomes low angle near the top and ends on a ledge. Veer right for 15' to a larger ledge then back left to the rappel anchors. A little dirty down low but another great warmup.

This is the first route as you enter Indian Country from the east. Before you start the climb make sure your belayer is anchored to the wall (TCU's). Begin off of a boulder and traverse right on edges to a bolt. The first crux section (11+) entails awkward stemming across a scooped out area (good edges for feet - microedges for hands) and then searching for a hand hold in a flared tips crack located around a bulge. Higher up, the flared tips crack widens into a beautiful finger crack that ends at a roof where the second crux (11b) is encountered (bolt protected). Pull the roof and enter an easy / fun hand crack (5.7) to the top. Four out of five stars!

Near the center of the crag is this nice thin crack system on great varnish.

Description

Protection

Routes in Indian Country