About .9 miles into Long canyon, on the right, you will see a striking series of crack and corner systems. There is a "loop" pull-off on the left side of the road. Hike slightly up-road and towards the rock on the right to intercept a trail system on the near side of a non-distinct approach ridge. I will probably find this, but sice the beginning of the trail is not obvious, you probably won't find it right away.

A distinguishing feature to aim for is a HUGE, square, black boulder sitting a few hundred feel below the wall, tipping at the edge of a small rotton cliff band below the climbing buttress. This rock is a few hundred meters below the base of Program Director.

Program Director can be identified as a clean, solid splitter with a slight offset, starting 30' up a 'mound' in a left-facing corner, and quickly opening up to a pleasant, solid crack-climb. The line zig-zags a little and the right side is offset (sticks out) about 6-10 inches in mmost places. Just as it gets enduro, a small jog in the crack seems to appear and give you a good resting foothold.

Great line, easier with bigger hands, will probably feel closer to 10+ for small hands. I had to fist-jam some of the moves. Tape or grind!

Rap from the anchor up top with two 60M ropes! No middle anchor is there.

Program Director

Mocha Chocolate Yaya

Dragon's Lair

Chopper

Teacher Conference

Unknown  11

Chalk is Cheap

Spawn of a Terror

Chasin' Skirt

Dawn of an Error

Shit Eatin' Grin

Unnamed

Start in left facing corner, climb double cracks on the left wall with off fingers and tight hands. Move up and left past the overlap clip the angle iron and move to anchor

Climbs broken rock to a slabby finger crack.

The Dragon's Lair is a very challenging 150' squeeze chimney.  The start of the route is loose and chossy, but quickly turns into a classic and brutal splitter squeeze. The crux, besides endurance, is fitting through a difficult bulge. You'll know when you are at the crux when you can't get back out of it.  Double rope rappel from 2 drilled baby angles.

Chopper is the left facing corner that the trail up to the cliff for Chalk is Cheap takes you to.  It is 50 feet left of Chalk is Cheap and maybe two corner systems over.

Quite sandy, could be done in two pitches, but better as one.  Rap with two ropes.

Climbs a short slab to a corner up to a pedestal below a green Camelot crack (possible second pitch, significantly harder). Short pitch to entertain you while waiting for Dawn of an Error

this route is quite good and may have been better in the past except... There is a large flake at about 120 feet that is much looser than it looks from the ground! be careful if you chose to do this route.

Very delicate and then burly, the two pitches of this Copeland masterpiece represent opposing ends of the Wingate spectrum of excellence.  The upper section of the slab and stemming corner requires balance based more on faith than feasibility and then the mood changes to overhanging fists reminiscent of the crux of the Yosemite classic Freestone.  Above lies an ample dose of great thin hands and the anchor.

The corner up the pillar immediately right of Dawn of an Error. Fingers off the ground widen to .75s before climbing some crispy face holds to change corners further right. When this crack pinches, move back left. This pitch has some cool moves, but loose rock will deter most. Perhaps it will clean up with a few ascents.

This is one of the furthest left, a few left of the more obvious Program Director.

Pitch 1 )  60- 70 feet. Mostly thin hands, fingers and some odd variety to keep it interesting.

Pitch 2 ) we did not climb it, with the sketchy rock at the traverse from the anchor with poor pro it was not too inviting, looked like more big gear then book suggested.

The Swedin-Ringle of Long Canyon.  Narrowing splitter beginning with easy #6 camalots and decreasing all the way to tips.  There is an optional intermediate anchor at 90 ft. that forces you to clip the chains in the middle of the crux wide fingers section. Going to the second set gives you a longer, more varied experience with a good stance to clip the anchors from.

This climb is a series of 3 cracks(as I recall, it's been a long time since I was there). 1st pitch starts in a right-facing corner which fades and steps right into a thin fingers up to hands at the anchor. The 2nd pitch is a Donahue Classic Splitter! Starts out hands tapering down to thin as the crack dissapears... reach right into the next crack. Tips, to thumb-stacks, to thin hands, to hands, to fists, to 6" up to the anchor. Great 2-pitch climb....

Description

Protection

Routes in Deadman's Buttress