From the second belay of Water Streak, traverse right and head up the steep face on pockets and crimps to the slab above. Alternatively, climb to the belay at the top of the Dihedral and continue up/left from there.

 This route was renamed by the FA decades after the first ascent.

Big Leap

Arching Crack

Nike Rout

Tree Route

Aid Corner

Face route

Right Dihedral

Eliminator

The Webb

Buttress Route

The Sundeck

Buns Up

JR X

Great Expectations

Right Face (AKA Easy Face)

Take off

Water Streak

This route intersects face route and starts down and left of it, climb up 30 feet, staying up just to the left of the crack with grass growing out of it. Continue up the face, ending at the start of "big leap".

Take the arching flake/crack that begins right of the "water streak" route. The crack curves around back toward "water streak" and peters out. At the top of the crack place you're last gear and go up through smooth slab and small pockets (really small) and intersect the 1st "water streak" belay anchors.  This is an excellent and exciting route as you run out to X territory on solid gear far below! Finish with the "water streak" or another variation if you want.

A long (for one pitch) slabby climb that gets easier as you go up. Once you have reached the belay station, you can walk on the slab (though not recommended). The crux is passing the first blot using moderate friction climbing.

Tree Route goes up the gulley right of Nike Route.  First 5.5 pitch ends at a tree a little less than half way up the route. Second 5.5 pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor. A good route for new leaders. 

  Rappel the route with two ropes, or possibly do a 3rd class walk off.  It is also possible to scramble/climb (exposed) left then down to the anchor for Nike route to rappel.

Climb the corner aid problem and turn the lip and head up the slabs.

Two pitches of unprotected face climbing, this route goes up the slab in between water streak and great expectations. P1: Climb up the slab 150 feet then traverse left to a bolt belay on "water streak" 

 P2: Traverse right onto the face and continue 120 feet to a small ledge with a large boulder.

 P3: From the ledge, climb up the roof then traverse left and finish the same as water streak, or do one of the roof finishes.

Not as good as the other Dihedral in the Narrows, but still a fun and unique climb.  The Dihedral climbs the tiered dihedral system to the right of Great Expectations.  Climb up the initial dihedral with good protection and positive holds.  At the top, step right and head back into the low angled chimney formed by the face and the second dihedral.  There is a slightly flared crack that splits the roof of the chimney.  You can place a couple of marginal cams in the crack, otherwise the protection is not great (but the climbing is easy).  Once you reach the top of the chimney, climb to the anchors at the top of Great Expectations and rappel with two ropes.

Great line, and the crux comes when the crack runs out as you conquer the lip.  Scramble down is possible, but a bolted anchor is up top.

A long, casual outing. I'd guess this (or some variation of it) has been done before, but since I've heard nothing of it being previously climbed, I'm listing it as a new route. Worth doing if you're at the crag and want to climb something different. Recommended to be comfortable on moderate run outs on 5.5 terrain for the top. 

  Starts on the lowest part of the slab just right of the Tree Route and below Right Face. From the belay perch at the bottom of the slab, climb the low 5th class slab to where Right Face starts, then move up and right to the next crack right of Tree Route on the right edge of that slab block. Climb it up to where it steepens (we setup a belay here). From there, pull left onto the slab block up to a second overlap with a small shrub in the crack just above it. Follow this crack until it ends, then rejoin Right Face and run it out on easier slab to the top bolted anchor of Tree Route. 

  From the Tree Route bolted anchor, rap using one 60m to the tree, then rap again using one 60m rope. Use stopper knots! You will probably have to step down a few feet to reach the tree midway.

Head up the Black Buttress between Eliminator and the Water Streak.  Climb the face, stay left until you reach the mid chains on Streak.  Second pitch mirrors the Water Streak line, staying to the left.

The main reason for climbing this is because it allows you to get down from Great Expectations or The Dihedral using only a single 60m rope, so you don't have to hike out with two ropes.It also allows you to reach "The Sundeck", a low angle area between boulders above the slab. This can serve as a nice area to eat lunch and hang out.From the Dihedral’s bolted anchor, walk down the slab 10-15ft, then reach over into the crack on the top of Nike and pull up onto the overlapping slab - this is the only "hard" move. Climb up on easy slab past Nike's anchors (clipping them as your only pro) and continue up to either "The Sundeck" and belay among the boulders or over walk over to the bolted anchor at the top of Tree Route and belay from there.To descend, rap Tree Route's bolted anchor with a single 60m or 70m rope down to the tree midway with the rappel sling setup, then rappel again using a 60m rope. Use stopper knots! You will probably have to step down a few feet to reach the tree midway, and walk across the low angle slab to the tree at the base after the second rappel.

Left facing slightly overhanging corner directly up from second belay station of the "Water Streak".  Steep Lay back moves get you to the lip.  Heel hook over the right side of the lip and grab a bomber hold on the left side of lip.  Flop yourself over the lip (crux) and continue up to the belay station (trad).  Very committing climb with exposure that turns many away. But lots of fun when you've done it.

Face climb up and to the left of buttress route. This route was a free solo by jimmy ratzlaff.

Great Expectations climbs the prominent crack just to the left of the tiered dihedral system.  Climb the slab using the crack for protection until the crack disappears.  Head up and right to another lone tree and a two bolt rap anchor located on the wall.  The route protects well all the way to the anchors  bring a good assortment of stoppers and cams.  You can either rappel from the anchors with two ropes or continue up a second easy pitch.  The second pitch climbs the easy flake above the anchors to a headwall.  At the headwall, traverse (walk is probably a better description) left to the anchors on the second pitch of Water Streak.  This second pitch is pretty short and very easy.  Long slings will reduce some of the rope drag caused by the abrupt traverse at the base of the headwall.  Even with two ropes, be prepared for a little easy down climbing at the bottom.

Climb the unprotectable knobby slab block.

On the Left side of Elk Slabs, climb up through a small roof where you can get some gear.  Step up and continue up the 'water streak' without pro until you reach the two bolt anchor.  Belay from here and then head up and to the left.

The Elk Slabs are located on the rocky western flank of Elk Mountain not far from Treasure Cove and the Pear & Apple formation.  The approach through the Charons Gardens Wilderness Area is a bit longer than other Wichita destinations, but the hike is pleasant and the crowds are minimal.  It's a great destination if you are looking to escape the weekend zoo in the Narrows or on Mount Scott.  The wall faces west / southwest and receives great afternoon sun on cooler days.  There are a number of excellent moderate trad lines, as well as a handful of more difficult lines (including one aid route).  Protection is generally good on the more popular lines, but is sparse or non-existent on others.

Description

Protection

Routes in Elk Slabs