Begin just left of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower at a nice looking finger crack.  Ascend this to a high first clip (an Alien is useful to protect this), and then eventually head up the face to the right.  Up higher the climb enters a steep right facing dihedral system that has a definite crux which can be negotiated with creative stemming.

Lalaland

Sly Little Fart Blaster

Over the Top

Chocolateland Variation

Crash Landing

Free Falling

Double Take

Solito

What's Its Face

Forkash & Riches

Finger Food

Desire

Hill's Little Hill

Perched

Crybaby

Baby Duck

Hang A Louie

From Chocolate to Chossman

Fender Strat

From Chocolate to Morphine

Stradivarius

Desert Storm

Desert Storm requires an approach via Stradivarius or Fender Strat (Both excellent lines on their own) but despite it being "out of the way" is, in my opinion, one of the best .12 pitches in the gorge. The pitch ascends a beautiful golden face with big exposure and incredibly sustained moves on crimps and small pockets. Though the route is only 6 bolts long, when you look to place your feet you feel that you are much higher off the deck as all you can see is the river, and not the small tower on which the belay for the route is situated. The rock on the route is much more coarse then other rock found in the ORG and climbs more like the Sad Boulders. I feel the only reason this route is not 5 stars is because it has not received much traffic and is relatively short by gorge standards.

This might get more stars if it weren't for the copious amounts of glue holding the crux section together.  Start down and right of Fender Strat, off the right side of the large flat boulder.  Crank up a short face to a ledge, move left and then back right to gain crimps and an obvious pocket.  Pull up and right using the arete (avoiding moving around the arete to join Stradivarius) and follow the contrived bolt line until cutting hard right to the Stradivarius anchors.

crux is about 3 bolts up on the headwall. The headwall is sustained, overhanging big holds.  A bit reachy.  Below the block is 5.9.

Best way to do both these routes, get the best climbing of From Chocolate To Morphine and Lalaland in one mega pitch.  Be careful lowering with a 70m make sure there is a knot at the end.

Even though it's been upgraded, the bouldery start of this immaculate gem still seems hard.

Works up a north facing panel of perfect rock on small edges next to an arete.  If only it were longer.

This is a good, steep route with fun movement and an exciting crux at the 4th bolt. It finishes with some less pumpy climbing. Can be combined with “Hang a Louie” though there will be some noticeable rope drag even if you extend the last clip of “...Louie” and first clip of “Free Falling.” You will need a 70 meter rope. Also, with all that rope out, it would be very easy to hit a ledge until past the second bolt on this route, if not the third. Safest thing would be to bring your belayer up.

The farthest right arete on the North face of the tower.  Scramble up easy terrain to a large ledge.  Lean over the gap and clip the first bolt.  Head up easy terrain to gain the arete.  Follow the arete up past a ledge area and then follow the right side of the arete to the anchors.

Located on the far left of the cliff around the corner from the other routes.  A definitive one-move wonder.  Climb up to the first bolt and then head right to a couple precarious moves on the arete to gain a jug.  Mantle this onto the slab and enjoy a cruise to the anchors.

Located in the center of the shady North face of the Faulty Tower.  Scramble up 3rd class terrain and lean out to clip the first bolt on the lip of the roof.  Crank over the crux roof and then climb up on large, slopey holds to a juggy horizontal crack.  head up and right on the horizontal and then continue straight up to the last bolt.  At the last bolt cut hard left to an annoying anchor clip at a non-stance.

A short, slabby face.  Unlock one move and send the rig.

The short but stiff route begins in a finger crack which is followed just past the first bolt.  Move left on small crimps and finally some good sized holds at the 3rd bolt.  Move up, then left and then back right at the last bolt.  Feels longer than it is.  The direct start is Forkash and Riches .12a

Short but aesthetic line up a steep, blank face next to Crybaby. Stick clip mandatory.

The climb starts with an extremely thin boulder on tiny, sharp crimps and mediocre feet to the first bolt. The guidebook calls this a V9. There are lots of options for hands, and most of them are bad. It looks like people have started right off the ground or left off some cheater stones - I went left.

After the first bolt, the climbing eases up significantly, with fun, long moves on mostly good holds and some good stances to shake midway. The climb ends with easy moves from the last bolt to the anchors below the roof.

The latest guidebook has this route listed as 13d. The grade is entirely based on the difficulty of getting to the first bolt, so your experience may vary.

start on "Over The Top". Above the block take the left bolt line. The technical crux is at the traverse to the vertical seam. Above that is sustained overhanging big holds.

A great route.  4th class up to the first bolt, pull a roof, and eek up the airy arête.

This is a classic Herbert rig that follows a seam up an immaculate wall. The crux comes early and is just a few moves long (I'd guess about V4 or 5). If you boulder or know how to campus it's bound to feel easy. But, you still have to have enough fitness to romp through some fun 5.11 at the top. Great route; very striking.

A pretty good pitch marred by the fact that there is chossy, easier climbing immediately next to both the intended start and finish.  In between is some steep, airy jug-hauling with a hard, reachy move between the third and fourth bolt.

start up "Over The Top".  Clip the bolt at the block and take a sharp left onto the ledge.  Traverse left past two more bolts and you're at the anchors for "Finger Food", etc.

Cool line, but very poorly bolted, and with huge loose blocks at the roof chimney. As long as the blocks stay put it's kind of fun, but if they were to go you'd clusterbomb the whole base of the wall.

Start at a flake system which is followed for 2 bolts.  Then begin trending rightward up the face on good holds.  At the 7th bolt, pull the bulge on somewhat suspect holds and follow more jugs to the anchors at the ledge.  Good climbing and an excellent warm-up.  Can be used to access the Desert Storm ledge.

From Chocolate to Morphine is a wonderful name for this climb -- the pump escalates in precisely that fashion.  Climb a flake that sits at the base of the main dihedral of the Faulty Tower, then up into the crack in the corner -- reaching right to clip bolts.  Eventually step right and shake out at a great horizontal below the roof.  Pull this roof on a questionable jug, and bust straight up the overhanging, blunt arete.  After a few clips, cut directly left around the arete (there's chalk everywhere around here making this a tough onsight if the climb is near one's limit), and continue up past a couple more clips to an anchor.

Down and left of "Lalaland" is a steep jamcrack, to the right of an arete.

Fun jamming, up this crack leads to a face with three bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Faulty Tower