Start with slabs and cracks to the right and uphill from the toe of the buttress.  There is a very good 5.7 variation (

Ain't Misbehavin'

) start to this climb which follows the blunt arete from the toe of the buttress.

Pitch 1:

Aim for the large pine tree down and to the right of the big roofs (these roofs sit above the gully on the left side of the buttress).  There is a 2-bolt anchor here.  (5.6, 90')

Pitch 2:

Head up and to the right of the steep difficulties, then back left above them.  Continue up the blunt ridge to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.  (5.5, 95')

Pitch 3:

Easy cracks and slabs lead to a short section of steeper cracks and pockets.  These end at a nice ledge with another 2-bolt anchor.  (5.6, 110')

Pitch 4 (Not Recommended):

There is another pitch above you if you want it.  Head up the obvious lines to the top.  The rock deteriorates (crumbly, mossy) quickly, but stays at the grade.  Beware that there are no more bolted anchors above.  (When I did it, we rapped off of a sling around a scary tottering choss pile.)  I don't know for sure, but it looks likely that you can top out and walk off to the right.  If you head up there, a bolt kit might be handy if you plan to rappel.

Ground Hog Day

Ain't Misbehavin'

Aquarius

50' left and downhill of the first pitch start for Ground Hog Day.  Look for the bolt line.

This line starts directly on the prow of the buttress.

This route was retro-bolted by the first ascent party in the fall of 2020 to make it safe for 5.7 leaders. Start approximately 40ft to the right of Groundhog day below two bolts leading to a small overhang. While there are several bolts on every pitch some gear is required to protect the route and a single rack of cams from .3-2" and a handful of nuts are recommended along with 9-10 draws/slings.

P1: Clip two bolts below a steep step (5.6), which leads to two more bolts easier terrain. Trad gear is required around the steeper step. (100ft).

P2: Climb up and left up a slab (5.4) past 5-bolts. A steeper slab move right below the anchors (5.7) on a large ledge. Many climbers will place 1-2 pieces of gear on this pitch (100ft).

P3: Walk across the ledge to the right. The pitch involves some fun and sustained face climbing (5.7). There are 8-bolts on this pitch but a few key finger-sized placements in a pod earlier on the pitch keep it safe. (100ft).

To descend, rap the route, a single 60m rope will get you down.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in February Buttress