2 pitch route right of Mystery Route Center.   First P is a low angle slab, all bolts.   second P is a Wide Crack.

The Better Life

Sex and Candy

Red Route

Yellow Route

Magnetic North

This route is; one short pitch, two long pitches and one more short pitch. You can do the start of the .9 to avoid the first belay. 

  the first bolt is shared with the 1 p 5.9, right of this one. after the first bolt, continue up and left, then chimney up into a notch, belay at 2 bolts. p2 hop up onto boulder, clip and step across, work up to big holds 8+, then cruz up easier ground, belay at 2 bolts, or step left and belay on rock bench with a tie though sling or med cam.( from here you can top rope the Better Life, the 5.10 wide crack )   P3 joins Mystery Route Center for a move, then heads up the face right of the old trad line for a full pitch, belay at 2 bolts. P4 climbs a short face to the summit which has belay bolts on the south side, and rap bolts on the north side, over the edge. I do not know who put these rap bolts in. 

  Scramble down the west side back to your packs

Dirty, fun, sustained crack with optional wide technique or lay-back move, ends on face left of notch. 

  On-sight FA June 2010 

  #5 cam optional but handy 

  Rap anchors with slings! bring a replacement, or down climb off to the south west. 

  IF YOU Top Rope THIS ROUTE, YOU MUST TIE-IN PRIOR TO LOWERING! 

  It is best to belay on top.

Along the Wilderness of Rocks trail there are several large domes that are right off the trail.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wilderness of Rocks Domes