A unique climb to both the Hinterlands and Rumney, the black, crystalline rock feels a lot different than other climbs in the area. Start up a left leaning ramp past a bolt placed on a horizontal shelf. At the top of the ramp, climb up the black rock through a water trough. At the fourth bolt (crux), step left and continue up more crystalline rock. Above this, the angle and the difficulty both ease significantly to the anchors.

Note - The start is more direct now, beginning lower down and left of the ramp, and heading directly up to the ledge. 

Chicken Head

Barbed Wire Corner

Know Moxie

Cold Shoulder

The Mean Lean

Hole in the Wall

Cold Feet

Black Slabbath

Who Done It?

Chicken Parts

What's Nokken?

Welcome to the Afterlife

Team Cream Puff

Black Ice Cooler

Moxie

Rise Against

Last Kid Picked

Sprite

Dolt

Free Range Chicken

Nicky's Crack

The Little People

Hinterland Highway

Pussyfoot

Ale 8

Jolt

Hot Head

Tang

Killers Crack

Giant Man

Back Crack

Live a Muerte

Electric Socks

Climb easy ground to the first bolt then continue to a good stance on the right....  From here reach left in to some crack laybacks... This section is a little balancy but cool... You end up using the obvious left leaning off-width crack to another good rest spot before stepping back out on to the face for a few more moves to the finish... 

  There are lots of options for jamming and finger locking if you like that sort of thing... Not that i do... This route could have been a good trad climb... But its still a worth while sport climb...

This is just what i was looking for when i set forth to climb it. That being said i don't think many people will agree with me on my quality rating cause its not what most people look for in a climb. Loose, crumbly rock and less than perfect gear (placed in that questionable rock) make it a bit sketchy. I like this in a climb so long as the moves are fun and the moves on this route are very fun and engaging. If you like that kind of thing this route is for you! 

  Stick clip the low bolt and climb from the left (below Electric Socks) up and right past crumbling pinches to a possible gear placement. pull through the bulge (which i found to be the crux) up in to the corner. Figure some gear and climb the corner to a really fun move exiting the corner. I recommend continuing up Electric Socks, it's fun and has a better anchor. 

  Do be aware that this climb could be as dangerous for the belayer as it is for the leader. Watch for loose blocks!

Start up Back Crack until below bulging rock. Move up right of bulge to place gear or go up left ahead is gear at the diagonal crack system, that goes on through the bulging rock easily. This ends at a pocket, below the inclining corner. Climb in and out of pocket onto inclining corner 5.9+/5.10. Here the climb stops at the chains. Mantling out right of the corner can be done by a committed free climber. (grade unknown).   It is a little mossy.

A fun bouldery climb on solid rock up a face to an arete and finally a nice ledge with anchors... Stays cool on hot days due to its sheltered location... Multiple tricky spots may puzzle you on your journey...  

  Climb a technical face to the 3rd bolt... make interesting moves to a jug and your last bolt... There are a couple ways to solve the last problem one a little to the right and one slightly left of the bolt... Either way you do it is about the same grade but different styles of climbing... 

This route may have received only a few ascents, since it is hidden away, but is on a very cool feature, a thin curving flake forming a shallow corner that runs right up along the edge of an overhang. It is high above and a little to the right of the Who Done It crack and was originally approached by first doing Electric Socks and then rapping off towards the right to find a two bolt anchor at its base. The addition of Live a Muerte has given another good approach option. Climb that route, continue past the anchor to the ledge. Clip a draw to the ledge anchor and scramble up the ledge/ramp to the right where you will find the 2 bolt anchor at the base of this climb.

 Jam and undercling your way out the exposed overhanging flake.

Good old fashion Rumney adventure climbing... When i last climbed it it was loose in parts and a bit vegitated... These things dont bother me much as long as its fun... And it was really fun for sure...   cracks of all sizes good protection and a cool hole to exit through at the top... I found the crux to be after the hole when you make a few moves to the tree you belay from... 

  Between the very sharp buttress where Electric Socks (5.8) is and Jolt there is a broken less than vertical face... Climb this face following the path of least resistance in to a corner where you climb through a hole and up another short way to the top where you can belay from trees...

To the 5.12 climber this climb is the start to the super classic Giant Man (5.12a/b), but to the average everyday climber it is a great 5.7 all its own, following a cool feature in a nice setting... 

  Follow the dike up the less than vertical rock past 8 bolts to an anchor at the base of the super imposing roof... Lower from here... 

  The climbing is fun and interesting and not hard or scary for the grade so it might be a good choice as a first lead if you are just getting in to it...

Underneath the huge overhang of Giant Man, there is a highly featured slab with a few bolt lines up it.  Black Slabbath climbs the right most bolt line up the, you guessed it, black slab.  As you would exspect, the route is balancy and the holds are pretty small and directionally dependant.  The climbing is really good and a bit challenging.  The route Hot Head (5.10c) does climb up above this so take care if people are struggling above you as you near the anchors, or if they are not paying attention when lowering off.  This route is a good warm up for the harder lines at the crag as it's technical and will stretch you out a bit, and just a worthwhile route while you are hanging around.

First off, I don't recommend this route.... 

  The first time I saw the crack that starts this route, I wanted nothing more than to climb it....   I recently did just that, and the crack was great; however, the rest of the climb was chossy and loose.... 

  Start on the wide hand/fist crack to a good rest at a ledge.... 2 finishes are possible, the left finish is a little run out up lower angle rock, the right hand is what think is the true line continues up cracks but the quality goes down hill fast.... I was pulling off chunks of rock as I went through the middle of the route..... After topping out, step left to a funky anchor (two button head bolts)....

This one is a testament on Mark Sprague's ability to make a rock into a rock climb. He has done a great job of creating a flowing route at a consistent grade out a wall that is kind of hard to read.

 Climb cruxy moves right off the ground and quickly gain a better stance. Follow the bolt line around to the right and realize that there is a good bit more climbing to do. A little trick right before the anchor adds a little spice to what was already a pleasant meal.

A short but sweet hidden in plain sight pitch. Steep, sequential, and core intensive, with a definite crux right at the last bolt. If you have ever done Electric Socks you have lowered down this one. 

 From the anchor at the midway ledge, walk to the right and lean/stem out to clip the first bolt in the steep face (if you are short it might be a high clip. I left a stick clip on the ledge for you ;) It had to be a little high to keep you off the ledge if you fell low on the route). The climbing starts relativly more mellow on edges and a cool undercling fingerlock. Past good holds and easier clips to the crux getting from the 3rd bolt past the 4th. Body tension, crimp strength and a well planned sequence will get you through as you climb left and eventually gain the left arete, mantel and move easily to the anchor.

 You will need to avoid climbing up when folks are lowering off of Electric Socks but Electric isnt a super busy climb and I dont expect this one to be either but it is quite worth while. Another option logistically is to just top rope this one after doing Electric to avoid multipitch logistics. Your call, HAVE FUN!

Climb onto a ledge to clip the first bolt, then up to a V notch.  Step to the left side of the V, move right (crux) to the face above, continue to the anchors.  

On the right end of the cliff there are 2 newer routes in the blackened schist. This is the left one. STICK CLIP THE FIRST BOLT! The opening sequence is deceptive but if you work it all out it goes really well. After picking your way through the steeper beginning section you move on to a lower angle and quite enjoyable upper wall. Make your way up to a comfortable ledge near the top of the cliff and clip that anchor.

 This route is much better than I had expected. Thanks mark!

 Usually soaked in the spring and an ice climb in the winter, but that is what makes the cool water sculpted holds.

At the start to 'Killer's Crack' climb past three bolts on face left of crack ('Killer's Crack' start can be done with these bolts). It goes at (5.9+,A0) and it'll free at 11 or 12 friction.    We switched leads after I put in the bolts. Ryan proceeded up past the bolts to the foot ledge and traversed left to 'Back Crack' foot ledge. Left of here there is a rock bulge with a crack above it. Gear was place high left to protect going down left around the bulge and up the other side of it to good hand hold cracks for twenty ft.(5.4-5) left. At the traverse ending there is at a pocket, below the inclining corner wall above. Go up through the pocket and inclining corner wall passing a bolt and a pin crux (5.9+/10). Chain anchors or do Moxie's finish, that has an excellent sky-hook ledge move right of the pin. After the hook placement there is stopper gear, then reach for a large sloping dead tree to hold onto to get off the wall. 4th class up to belay tree. The sky-hook ledge is knife blade sharp. This top off could have a little cleaning first, before free climbing below the dead tree.     I didn't do the hook finish.  I did the wild long pendulum swing right. That sliced the rope's sheath. Route is set up now to avoid this kind of mishap. The route zigzags and it'll always take some thinking to avoid rope drag or do a two rope belay.

To the left of Jolt is a big orange face that is capped by an 8 foot roof. It is just stunning when the late evening sun hits it.  

  This route climbs up some easy scrambling terrain for about 40 feet where the real climbing begins. From here the difficulty increases as you progress. Some Interesting problem solving on a thin face felt about 5.9 to me. A solid rest in a horizontal break gets you ready for game time, layback up the Beautiful right leaning fin which gets harder as you go. A thank god jug gives you a break before Clipping the roof bolts. Climb the right edge of the roof and hand-traverse left across the front and up to clip the chains to an amazing view.  

  IMPORTANT NOTE: The first 40 ft of climbing is very easy but has relatively poor rock quality. I spent many days working to remove hazardous rocks but please take care to tread lightly on this section so to avoid finding something I could have missed and inadvertently bombing someone below with it.

Between Dolt and Nikki's Crack climb easy but fun moves with a mix of eye bolts and hangers.... A few interesting moves gets you to the crux bulge.... Finding the feet is the hardest part... Pull on to the slab above and pass one more bolt before gaining a nice stance at the anchor...

The first 5 bolts of Ale 8, up the featured slab to an anchor at a ledge at the intersection of the overhang.  - better description once I reclimb it. I remember it being pretty good.

Much like Jolt (5.10b) but on the other side of the fin.... Still an awesome route but not quite as perfect as its neighbor to the left.... The last time I did it there were still a few loose rocks on it, but I think that the traffic the route has seen recently has cleared that up.... Amazing exposure for a route of its grade....

 Start up the line of bolts beneath the huge flake/fin above.... Fun climbing leads to exciting airy moves on the edge of the fin....

 A must do route only upstaged by Jolt....

 Note - Be very careful of loose rock, especially on the top part.  The whole arete is exfoliating. It is not a good idea to hang out below this route or Jolt

A cool short crack climb directly under the big fin on Jolt (5.10b)... If it was longer it could be classic but it just ends and you are left wishing for a little more... 

  Start to the right of Jolt and find the steep crack that eases up as you go... This leads a set of anchors... 

  If you are the type to seek out trad climbs at rumney (like my self) climb it for sure but dont bother going too far out of your way for it...

Don't be fooled by the name...it's not a crack climb. "Nikki's Crimps" might be more appropriate. A great technical climb which can stymie confident 5.12 climbers from time to time. 

  The route starts up more moderate moves in a corner gaining a good rest followed by stout face climbing following the thin cracks in the headwall. Very technical.

This climb starts on the arête of a huge boulder for 3 bolts than transfers to the cliff for the remaining bolts. I found the route had 3 distinctive crux. From layback to a slab mantel this route is sure to give you food for thought.

A cool easy climb... Great for beginners and warm-ups for the moderately tough and those who don't mind enjoying climbing at a low grade...To the right of jolt and dolt you will see the steep cracked face of Nicky's Crack (5.11d)... The next bolt line right is Hinterland Highway... The crux is low down on the face leading to the cruiser arete to the chains that are shared with Nicky's...

Right of Cold Feet, climb the initial white slab of Hot Head to sub-anchors below the roof. This avoids the awkward top of Hot Head, (but you should do the finish at least once!)

This route is left of Giant Man and doesn't see much traffic. Climb the slab to big flakes (Sprite) then pull up into a roof with traversing, funkadelic moves. Go up through jugs to one last move for the anchors. You might have to clean your way up, but it is well worth it.There is now a bolted mid anchor at the top of the slab, providing a nice 5.6 if stopping there: Sprite

Many call this the best 5.10 at Rumney. Wildly-exposed climbing interesting fun moves on good holds; it would be hard to find anything negative to say about this climb (except maybe that it is an exfoliating death trap). Its main feature is a crazy rock fin jutting out 80 feet above the ground. You will learn to love this feature or you will find yourself catching big air. 

  Starting on less-interesting, moderate moves you will eventually gain a stance looking up at the business, which is the last 50 feet of the climb. Follow the bolts heading up and right on crimps and underclings until you are following the very edge of the rock fin. At this point, you will be forced to smear on small foot holds right on the edge of the flake with nothing under you for what seems to be a long, long way. A few, less-exposed moves on crimps lead to the top and a nice ledge to sit on and take in the view.

Not my favorite route here. The slab climbing is good, the top out is good, but oh the crux sucks. It's not particularly hard, just very crunched up and awkward if you don't think your moves out, at least for me and everyone else that I've seen, maybe you'll have a more enjoyable experience.Climb up the bolt line to the left of Black Slabbath and to the right of the huge dyke leading up to Giant Man. At the top of the slab you can clip the anchors and then lower off having ticked a great 5.9, or put an extended draw on the anchor and pull over the lip into the crunched up cave. Awkwardly make your way to the right. Make good use of extended draws or slings here otherwise the rope drag gets pretty heavy beyond this point. After working out to a comfortable rest on the right, climb the cool ramp on the right to the crack in the face on the left. Hopefully you got the route clean so you won't have to do the crux again. I recommend lowering off to the first anchor and re-routing the rope if you plan to clean your gear on rappel or as you are lowered as the wear on the rope can be heavy and cleaning can be tough from the top anchors.Also, be aware of other climber in the area, particularly on Black Slabbath as you will be climbing above them and potentially lowering off onto them.

This Route is Scary. All of the bolts are placed well, and it's not exposed or anything, it just takes some technical, balancy moves that feel very insecure and there seems to be a lot of rocks jutting out from below you. Luckily, I didn't fall, and I feel safe recommending this route, just something about it freaked me out a little. That made it kind of fun.

 The route is the nearly the last one on the right (there are a couple around the corner now), before the step up into the gully with the fixed rope (which leads to the Crow's Nest.) It starts on some very steep jugs with a bolt just out of reach if you're 5'10". Climb up and left to a pretty good rest, you can stem to the rock fin behind you (The start to Little People, 5.10a.) From here climb up the smoothish face with some small crimps and a lot of balance to the anchors.

Start by pulling over a bulge on a super thin crack then in to a much better size finger crack... This widens to thin hands and protects well... I ended up going around the corner to the left and in to some interesting positions looking for the anchor before down climbing and figuring it out... once you are lookin around the corner to the left make a strenuous hand traverse right and fish in a solid piece... Then head straight up on crimps till you can clip the anchor... 

  I found this route to climb more like 5.10 but i guess thats what 5.9+ is getting at anyway, right...

As you approach the Hinterlands, Giant Man is off to the right in the little alcove up the hill. It is a very recognizable route, dominant and steep, bulging over the top of a 55 or so foot slab. The slab section is 5.7, enjoyable, following a neat-looking dike that tapers the further up you get.

 Pull up onto the steep after clipping the anchors for the .7 with an extended sling and pull on the biggest jugs that could ever exist for about four or so moves. The mid-section is where it starts to get harder, traverse left a couple of moves (while realizing that there's a lot of exposure up here). Pulling up out of the steepest part of the route is grunty, and finish up on a couple of more technical moves. It is a beautiful route.

Back Crack is one of the least complicated ways of climbing safely into Hohe Hinterland.  Climb this zigzaging crack straight through, and do some funky chimney smears up and onto the small ledge above the corner after clipping high on the left after the natural pro ends.  There is a small ledge where you can place a piece before moving up over another bulge onto a slab and up to some belay trees in the Hohe Hinterland area.   

  Careful; there is a crux move to get on the climb, so place a bomber nut and crank through.

A varied climb with an inobvious sequence that is nonetheless enjoyable once you figure it out. Start in the crack (I didn't clean the crack aggressively because it is part of another climb #respect). Break left of the crack soon after leaving the ground and climb lower angle face to the base of the steep fin. Pick your way through a pleasant but hard to identify sequence with fun footwork. toward the top I enjoy breaking left right out to the edge of the fin (awesome kneebar ;) but it is possible to climb straight up staying right of the bolts if you prefer. An anchor awaits on a slab at the top of the fin. You may continue past the anchor to the ledge up and to the right if you are continuing to one of the upper routes, Welcome to the Afterlife 5.12a or The Mean Lean 5.12a+ (haha).

 Interesting climbing which was hidden by a good amount of loose rock. I have removed all the loose stuff I could identify but I would say don't stray too far from the path of the bolts or you are getting into the adventure zone.

This one can be a little scary if you aren't used to the techniques and exposure involved, but it is a favorite of mine thanks to the awkwardness of the chimney crux and exposed nature of the top...Start up the chimney on unusually sharp rock. The rock gets less sharp as you climb...The crux of the route is exiting the chimney section. Most of the good holds are on the left as you climb out of the chimney, but they are hard to get to.... After the chimney, the angle eases off and you follow a ridge with great exposure to one more short steep section with nothing underneath you but air. Keep your head on straight and you will be clipping the chains in no time....Note - There is often a large ravens nest near the anchor. Please avoid during nesting season if they are there. Ravens have a long memory of individuals who bother them and will sometimes try to bomb you with rocks.

Once the best kept secret at Rumney, now the secret is out and this is a popular destination for many Rumney climbers.... Routes from 5.6 to 5.12c many of them with sickening exposure for single pitch routes.... At the Hinterlands, you will find what you are looking for for sure. The cliff has steep pumpy routes, slabs, technical faces, and even a few cracks...you will find sun and shade on the same day, and in the winter you can even climb rock and ice on the same day, what more can you ask for? 

  The hike might seem long to those spoiled by Rumney's typically nonexistent approach hikes, but a half hour should get you there, and you will find must do climbs at a variety of grades and styles such as, Jolt (5.10b) maybe the most exposed 5.10 at Rumney, climbing the very edge of a fin of rock 80 feet above the trail. Or if you want something exposed but more moderate try, Dolt (5.9, just right of Jolt), or Electric Socks (5.8+, one of my favorite routes at the grade at Rumney).... If it's hard, steep climbing you want, Giant Man (5.12b/c) is worth the hike all on its own.... This is only to name a few, the list goes on.... 

  Note:  Be aware that high up on portions of this crag, especially in the area of Jolt, the rock is unstable and there are massive pieces ready to come down. There is a huge block above Hinterlands Highway. Hanging out below puts you in the danger zone. Find a safer spot to wait for your turn off to the side and wear your dome piece while belaying if you have one.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Hinterlands