Climbs from the ground onto the summit of Double Chocolate. First 30 feet climbs 5.6-.7. After 30 feet or so becomes 5.7 with lots of holds ending with a 5.10a crux using thin ledges over slight overhang near the top, then topping out on thin 5.7 slab. A climb with fun change ups, but because of its location on the NE corner will require light brushing at the beginning of each season. This route is easily toproped by way of Gold Finger (5.5). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2 Umpqua 2007 Topo L and Map 4 pp. 107-108.

Atomic Cafe

Kaluha Krypton

Strawberry Jamming

Eat a Peach

Rocky Road

Gold Finger

Banana Split Republic

To be a Gecko

Long Dong Silver

Steve Miller Route

Cherry Garcia

Sunday Morning Obsession

Starts on on the ground below Lizards Ledge following the bolt line just right of Strawberry Jam crack. This is a fun route to lead when clean, but requires a light brushing at the beginning of each season. This route is easily toproped from Lizard's Ledge. When clean, a good lead route for anyone transitioning from the gym to outdoor climbing. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2 Umpqua 2007, Topo L & Map 4 pp107-108.

Kahlua Krypton is short but consistent 5.10a- climb up the center of the headwall from Lizard's Ledge. Route begins at Lizard's Ledge where the winter sun always shines. The headwall above the ledge to the top is very slightly overhung and is one of the first place to dry during wet periods. The route does not collect moss so it stays clean and relatively closely bolted so it is a good choice for anyone transitioning from gym to outdoor lead climbing. It is also easily top roped by way of the Gold Finger (5.5) one move access route. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon volume 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo L and Map 4 pp. 107-108.

Fun crack/ face climbing. This route is on lower wall below Lizards Ledge from where it is easily toproped. The route tends to collect needles and moss so requires some TLC at the start of each season.

The crux (5.7) of this climb is the first 10 feet. Requires a brushing at the beginning of each season. Easily toproped by way of Gold FInger (5.5). Refer to  Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2 Umpqua 2007 Map 4 pp. 108.

Short access route to the top of Double Chocolate. Crux comes after clipping the first bolt. After a fun two move sequence scramble the ridge to bolts and chains on the summit.

Crux is with the first 10 feet. Two starts are possible. Starting on the right is 5.7. The more direct start to the left will be 5.9. Easily toproped by way of Gold FInger (5.5). The shaddows and huecos will require light brushing at the beginning of each season. Refer to  Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2 Umpqua 2007 Map 4 page 108.

Start on a gritty off-width to a nice crack that will traverse left. Continue up after the traverse to bolted anchor.

Climbs for right corner arete off Lizard's Ledge from right of the lower small hueco up the left side off-width of the protruding flake. Chains on top. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon volume 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo L and Map 4 pp. 107-108.

Move slightly left to first bolt and then climbs slightly right on small crimps and side pulls. This route is easily toproped by way of Gold Finger (5.5). Refer to  Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2 Umpqua 2007 Topo L & Map 4 pp. 107-108.

Begins on the access ramp to Lizard's Ledge just before the first break in the ramp. Climbs to the right of the larger center huecos, topping out at the top anchors for Sunday Morning Obsession. Because of the shaddows and huecos this route requires some brushing at the begging of each season.

From the far left corner of Lizard's Ledge follow bolts up the SW corner arete making a series of challenging off-balance moves. This route is now in the shade so can collect moss and will require some TLC at the beginning of each season before leading. Bolting is relatively close and the surrounding trees reduce exposure. Once brushed this is a good choice for anyone transitioning from gym to outdoor leads. Using a directional it is easily toproped bay way of Gold Finger (5.5). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon volume 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo L and Map 4 pp. 107-108.

Generally south facing high quality sandstone

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Double Chocolate