This route might be called "forgotten crack", but I doubt anyone who leads it will forget it soon thereafter. The 'R' rating I have assigned is for the dubiousness of the rock and placements I made, protecting the crux climbing. The route is short enough that you could hit something if a placement failed.That said, the moves are fun and unique and this lead is a decent time-passer if you are solid at the grade and confident of your ability to judge the rock quality there.

On the "Back" of Billboard Buttress, where Billboard faces Bilbo, you will see a ramp leading up and right (north) for 20' to a crack system, which can be climbed to the top of the rock. Do it. Be wary of gritty stone and some potentially bad placements along the way.

Slip Silly (aka Forgotten Crack)

Red Beckey (aka The Rabbi)

Crack Alley

Gait of Power Traverse

The Gritty, The Bad, and The Ugly

S**thole cave

Knaug and Hyde

Sheet Bends

Gait of Power

Driving Limitations

Squat Rockets

Ceramic Bus

We Dive At Dawn

Blow

Bilbo

The Reverend

This climbs easy cracks and face to the right of "Driving Limitations", joining that route near the top.

Climb the crack to cruxy moves near the top where the crack pinches down and face moves lead to a ledge at the top. Good gear but you need to hang out a bit to get it in. Two stars out of five.

To the right of

Blow

there are a half dozen cracks of varying widths.  These can be combined in various ways into some fun cracky highball boulder problems.  These make good warm ups while you're waiting to climb other routes.  They're also useful for teaching uninitiated friends some basic crack technique.

My favorite starts with the rightmost crack.  Lay back until you're about two meters off the ground, then reach left to a pinch and do a little acrobatics to get your feet into a crack one meter to the left and continue up another meter or two.

Start at the base of Gait of Power but take the ascending, horizontal ledge/crack for a ride to the right. The small sloper crux is approximately 12 feet to the right of the start and about 6' off the ground. Top out 'round the corner:)

Wasn't listed but added this after I used this to set up a route for some beginners. May edited as needed.

A low angle crack with a good move where the crack widens. Can get awkward after the crux about 15 feet up but plenty of options to either do some gritty body squeezes or make some thought provoking smears. Follow the crack until it things out then move out on some great features of plates and knobs to join sheet bends.

Start low on boulder just left of the cave. Work your way onto the face at the entrance of the cave, throw a foot out right, rock on top of it and pull up.

The flake used to pull up into the cave is a bit sharp, but should clean up over time.

Fun jamming and liebacking up the smooth brown corner to an exit over lumpy rock to bolts on top.

Climb a boulder problem start past a bolt to reach a right-slanting crack and then left-slanting flakes that join with the upper portion of

Squat Rockets

.

The

Gait of Power

is a technique for running in total darkness as taught by Don Juan in the books of Carlos Castaneda.

A very popular but average route up the plated face right off the road. The rating is accurate if you climb directly past the first bolt otherwise it's a bit easier.

Decent climbing on this but the rock is suspect throughout and the constant buzz of traffic detracts from the overall experience. One star out of five.

Start up easy crack climbing to reach a right-slanting ramp which crosses the route

We Dive At Dawn

; higher easy climbing heads up and left to the top.

Cool route that starts by mantling onto a ledge 8' up then pulling into a left leaning seam.  You can get a small cam or a nut but nothing to ease the mind until you clip the bolt at the crux near the top.  Sharp and thin face climbing sequence for the crux.

A slightly offset flake/crack at the start that jogs left slightly midway where it crosses the route

Squat Rockets

.

This climb is to the left of  Billboard Buttress and "Sheet Bends", facing Pixie Rock.

Climb cracks to a ledge. Move around right and climb face past bolts to a three bolt anchor.

Start at "Squat Rockets", and go staight up. The crux is tricky. I blew it about three times in a row before I decided to stop and think a bit. I watched a group of four mess it up one after another a short time back. I injected some advice which was appreciated. It's strenuous getting above the horizontal. It will quickly sap your strength if you keep getting it wrong.

Easy terrain leads up into a recessed area and then up the nice hand crack which jogs left near the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in Billboard Buttress