Proceed through a difficult (11a) bulge via a finger tip lieback move and knobs.  Get out a bit left onto a very smooth face and proceed up (10d) into easier territory.  Beautiful stone.

Sometimes a Great Notion

When the Saucers Land

Mad Knowledge of Self

Aqua Sucre

Arrested Development

Rancher Avoidance Procedure

Face along a crystally ramp until beneath the ominous looking hanging flake.  Amazingly it is only about 5.7 to lieback onto this thing.  Proceed up the corner to the roof.  Go left around to a Half Dollar flake, then traverse more left and slightely up to a thin right facing flake.  You can place a TCU in the Half Dollar, but runner it good and be sure the rope doesn't run around the bottom of the flake when you get higher, or it will jam.  Go straight up past bolts (10b) to the anchor.  The second pitch goes straight up 10c dime edging to a low angle area.  Go straight up to the right hand chimney and climb this (5.4) to a ledge with a Fixx anchor set.

A little bit of everything: fingers, liebacking, hands. Beautiful stone.  Do it.

This the the left hand route of the two here, the other being Rancher Avoidance Procedure.  A thin start leads into the 60m trough.  Follow the bolts to a 2 bolt Fixx anchor belay on a cool ledge under the overhang/cave.

This is a low angle face and friction route, fun to take beginners up.

Rappel the route...you need two-60m ropes to rappel.

A wild little climb through some steep stone via stemming, jams and a wicked undercling till you pop to a big jug.  Yard up on to this honker, place pro in the flake and lieback a few airy, thin moves into much easier ground.  Cool movement: do it.

I should add that this route was originally Vogel's idea.  Good climber, and imaginative.

This is the right hand route, the other being Aqua Sucre.  This route is perhaps slightly easier than Aqua Sucre, ending at the same anchor.

Like Aqua Sucre, this is a low angle face/friction route, fun for taking beginners climbing.

Rappel the route.  You need 2-60m ropes to do this.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rancher Rock