Climbs the fist crack up the dihedral on the left side of the Wizard and Glass slab.  Build a gear anchor to bring up 2nd and then traverse over to the anchors on top of Angst.

Frogland

Willy Wonka

Booger Sugar

Discount Bungie Jump

Obturation (Project)

Kozzybear

Top Ten

Ungracious Lee

Ironman (Open Project)

Queen Bee

Frontier Justice (extension)

Wonkamobile

Unknown

Short Round

Wizard and Glass

Sugar Pill

Big Sky (extension)

Powder Puff

Styx

Cerebral Moment

Gracious Grant

Sugar Burner

Wormhole

Six Inches From Glory

Sweet'n Low

Hive Mind (Extension)

Candy Ass

Crème Brûlée

Closed Project

Hive Mind

He's Not Your Buddy

Achilles Heel

Sex & Candy

Candy Panties

Better Call Saul

Abba-zaba

Elder Statesman

Stark Industries

I Heart Joe

Sweet Tooth

Stinger

Tainted Love

Oompa Loompa

Big League Chew

Quantum Foam

The Great Hog Farm Fire of '97

I Heart Joe (Extension)

Nose Candy

Angst

Bumpers

Little Sky

Bald Ambitions

Follows the thin crack system up the middle of the face using small edges and technical feet. Originally lead on gear and retro bolted later.This climb is on from the beginning, few rests with technical climbing throughout.  Figure out the low crux and hang on as you pull multiple unique, quality moves to a final crux at the anchors!

Start up a ledge and make a fun move off the slot.   Balance your way through some slabby moves to a final crux up high. 

  Very entertaining and fun moderate.

Start on the slabs and travers left to the slab at the base of the crack and flow the crack to the ledge and clip the anchors. You can continue to the next set of chains for a nice 10b. 

Start on good rock aiming for the "tuffa Honeycomb" feature. Set up for a big move and enjoy unique holds to the base of the roof. The extension is Called Frontier Justice 12d

This would be a 5 star 12a IF it wasn't for the v10/11 dyno lurking mid route.Begin downhill from "Gracious Grant"- stickclip the first bolt or be very careful traversing precarious stone to the first bolt.Climb up 4 bolts of cruiser 5.10 entrance terrain on some softer rock before negotiating the improbable boulder problem in the roof.Either a massive all points off dyno to a flat shelf ensues, or a some cryptic funk on BAD holds will gain the move.From the shelf hold after the dyno, pull the roof and cruise on big holds and immaculate stone- very reminiscent of climbing of the prohibition wall.Wicked exposure, and an adventure of of a route. Would be a classic route for Arkansas if it weren't for the blank section of rock/dyno

Start up sometimes manky but easy climbing until you hit a mini crux at a ledge.  Figure out a way to get left to the bomber honeycomb section for a shake.  Some power endurance-y climbing awaits until you can get established on the face for some easy ground.  One more thoughtful crux guards the chains.This pitch ends at the roof.  The extension to this route is called Big Sky.

Climb the sweet looking dihedral. 

  Fun laybacking, easy/good gear.

This variation to Gracious Grant, starts and finishes on GG but traverses left at the 4th bolt.  Head up and pull over a small roof then meet back up with GG's line at the rest ledge.

Start on the first 3 bolts of Stark Industries, then break right on a jug rail traverse. Clip up and battle through a nearly blank bulge (crux). The crux is a 5 move boulder problem estimated somewhere V8-V10 that has not been done yet. There are a couple possible solutions. Either a wild knee bar to a compression sequence off a terrible sloper and a full span to an okay crimp, or a super long lock-off to a finger-lock. The rest is beautiful 5.11- headwall with well spaced bolts to the top of the wall.

Climbing good holds trending right into hive mind at the slab crux! This route takes away the crux start to hive mind. 

Roof Extension to Discount Bungie Jump (5.11b/c) low chainsClimb through the stellar terrain down low, consisting of interesting tafoni features that are surprisingly bomber. From the base of the roof embark on the wild ride of jugs and a few large moves that guard the chains high above. About 25 feet of straight roof tugging on this monster will satiate your desire for a small pump or some serious arkansas air beneath your feet. Keep your morals straight or you just may succumb to some good ole fashioned frontier justice.

This link up starts in the same crack as Nose Candy but at the 1st ledge goes left into the slab and finishes before the ledge. Fun climbing if someone is climbing the 5.8 finish of Nose Candy. 

Easier climbing leads to the crux pulling over the roof. Careful of the rock.

Interesting bouldery crux off the ground.  Hard to find working beta.  Then just hang on for some easier climbing and big moves on slopers to the top.

A rarity! A hard slab climb in Arkansas. The rock is bomber, the bolts are well spaced, and all the clips are made from good holds.  

  For shorter people, this route will have two cruxes: first above the 2nd bolt and again after the 4th or 5th bolt. Tall people (over 6 ft) can bypass the first crux by reaching to a jug, but they will have to figure our the delicate second crux.

Starts right of Nose Candy on the slab and traverses left to the ledge and up the left side of the slab.

Gather up your ranch hand muscles and tie in to test your gumption on Candy Mountains Big Sky. A 5.11 headwall that leads into a massive roof system where a nails crux awaits. 

 Pull the pocket move and sail into the blue yonder above, to clip those glorious chains.

 Only route currently equipped with climbtech Permadraws at the moment.

This route is packed full of interesting holds and sequences! Hike up the easy, blocky start to the first bolt. Pull through some vertical slots and up to the obvious ledge. Stick a precise dead point and work up to more ledges. Mantle up and move to the dihedral with a zig-zagging flake. Engineer a successful sequence and get rewarded with a good rest before the final sustained moves to the chains. Classic.

Begins first four bolts of Achilles Heel, but continue straight up, clipping draw to your right. Follow hand traverse right and pull onto face.

I don't believe it is possible to walk past this rock climb without stopping to have a "cerebral moment" while gazing up at the incredibly aesthetic crux. It's an intimidating, blank shield of rock, but the holds begin to appear after some vertical exploration. The boulder problem that awaits you after clipping the third bolt is as good as bouldering on a rope gets. Good luck and God's speed if you're the one hanging the draws...

One of the best 5.10's in the state. 

  Begin on a small crack then traverse onto buckets up the lichen covered face.   Sweet movement and aesthetics make this an instant classic.

Another great link up on the Honeycomb wall! Start on Abba Zabba and after the arete move right to Kozzy Bear Finish going out the roof on Big Sky! 

Face away from the rock as you stem up to the ledge above the first bolt (looks harder than it is, as long as you find the feet).  Then make a bold move as you grab the ledge, and bring both feet over to the bolted cliff face.  Shimmy over to the arête to clip the second bolt, and enjoy the fun climbing to the top with a couple of crux sequences in the middle.  A fun and (somewhat) heady lead for moderate climbers.

Stick clip the first bolt (unless you feel SUPER comfortable on 5.11 terrain...but seriously, stick clip it) and head up through a few bolts of awesome rock to some chicken heads. Enjoy fondling softball-sized chickenheads on your way to the anchors.

A very striking and colorful section of the bluffline. Make a big move from the boulder and step across to a good jug and move through the pockety face (crux). Continue up through the orange rock littered with ultra smooth incut holds. It may be best to clip the last bolt with an alpine draw to avoid any drag moving up to the anchors.

Starts with a sandy overhang to pull a short roof to the left of the first bolt.  Then tackle the slab for about 3 more bolts before heading up a steep section of solid honeycomb.  After the honeycomb, the route is vertical and only hold before the ledge and the first set of anchors is a 4" round pocket.  Skip the anchors with mussy hooks and clip the bolt from the ledge, then traverse left under the roof to one more bolt before climbing up to the chains with carabiners.  The plaque at the bottom of the route says "Hive Mind" and suggests the grades of both 11a and 12a. The 11a is for the first set of anchors and 12a is for the second set of anchors.

Depending on your wingspan this might be harder for shorter climbers. More pockets than what you can see from the ground! 

This short but tasty treat has some of the most delicious looking rock you'll ever see. You'll find perfectly sculpted, positive holds and exquisite movements for the grade. This climb features a sweet start up to a massive chicken-head, clip up and launch into multiple crux sequences that are well protected for the 5.10 leader. The crux revolves around getting to and moving off a small areté that looks like mounds of melted, caramelized sugar.Despite being short, Crème Brûlée still will light a torch under your forearms making it a nice warm up for those who want dessert before dinner.

CLOSED PROJECT (NO RED TAG) Starts in the thin crack and up into the honey comb moving left to the Triangle block in the roof. Unsure of grade and star rating at this time. 

Start on the interesting pocketed tufu pulling onto the slab. Climb the slab on crumbly edges (will clean up with time).  After the slab enjoy amazing pockets on the off vertical wall to the the finish ledge. Roof extension goes at 12a. Worth the time to bag those 12a points if you climb the grade! Very exposed movements out the roof! Enjoy! 

Climb a short and easy slab to gain a ledge to clip the first bolt. Head up the long face to some interesting moves to gain a ledge beneath a roof. Traverse right under the roof and climb the headwall where you will meet up with the crux on some crimps.

Classic Candy Line 

  Climb through honeycomb pockets (tafoni) till you reach a large sloping rail. 

  From here heel hook your way to the glory jug finish. 

  A tad pumpy.

Fun opening boulder problem that climbs out right to a ledge; pull the small roof and enjoy pockets and sloper to the chains! 

Climb the slab to the ledge below the Pockets. Pockets are surprisingly super solid!  Finish climbing through the waco below the chains!

This line finished to the right of the black streak caused by water run off. fun 5.11 climbing with good rests leads to a hard boulder problem(v7ish) at the top ending in a very committing move. The crux bolt is commonly skipped as clipping it in sequence is quite difficult. The fall is safe.

This superb face route begins under the jutting flake just right of Willy Wonka.  Climb up to the flake(optional #1 Camalot) and move onto the low-angle wall.  Wander up the slab through a small dihedral and finish on pumpy, slightly steeper terrain

Great route with monster holds. Great stance on really good stone with beautiful runs of lichen. 

  Climbs 5.11 terrain up to a one move crux where the climb lets off substantially

Amazing Line! MUST DO! Boulder start into a technical slab. Enjoy glory pockets to the finish Red point moves! 

Boulders start to hidden flake...steepens as you climb up to 3rd bolt, traverse to right side of blunt arête.

Start as for Queen Bee but at the 3rd bolt go straight up the slab aiming for the liter sized pocket. Get a nice rest and fire the steep honeycomb and cruise fun climbing to the Chains! 

Follow a crack system and make a tough move out to good incuts up the roof.  

  Last I checked, anchor biners were rusted shut and could use replacement.

Short Arete right of Powder puff. Unique climbing on pockets and arete. Climbs way better than it looks! When you clip the chains you are disappointed it's over! Named for being short and Orange! 

The entire route is sad to be a crux after the fixed draw.  It has been described as "like Bald Ambitions, minus the occasional pockets or O.K. holds".

Start on right face and move out onto blunt arete and finish on left face.  Route is often seeping water and not climbable.  

This route used to be a 5.9 R trad route, but has recently been bolted. Scramble the shared start with Willy Wonka, navigate a huge and unique flake feature, climb the right-facing corner, then pull over a small roof and follow edges to the anchors. Try not to pull out too hard on the thinner areas of the flake. Not incredibly sustained, but varied and enjoyable.

This is a nice little bouldery extension to the 5.11 pumpfest.  Clip a draw to the anchor of I Heart Joe and paddle your way up the ledges.  Trend a bit left to avoid vulture guano stalagmites and get a nice no hands rest.  When you're ready, romp to the roof and lean out for an easy first clip in the roof  (you will be heading out of the roof to the climbers right of the draw, so keep that in mind when clipping).  Pull the short boulder problem with perfect crimps, ending in great holds.  Surf jugs another 15 feet for a steep but moderate finish.

Stick clip Start climbing in the left leaning crack to the ledge. Climb the easy layback to the large ledge and enjoy facecliming to final crack below the chains! This would get more stars if not for the ledges and might get more stars as it cleans up! Still a fun climb and can be considered easier or harder depending on your crack skills! 

Start in the back of the flaring corner and work your way up the crack.

This link up is not one to be missed! Start on Kozzy bear and after the roof move left onto Aba Zaba's face. Finish out the roof of Abba Zabba! 5 Star Roof climbing 70 feet off the ground...money! 

Pull onto the face and work up to a big chickenhead. Weave through a maze of sloping bulges with the occasional, decent flat hold. "Technical and deviously sustained" and a whole lot of fun.

An extension of Cave Creek. Candy Mountain offers secluded, tall, high quality climbs in the Natural State.   One of the best crags by far!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Candy Mountain