This route was put up as a thank you gift to my dear friend Bobbi a

s a token of appreciation for a great summer! It was n

amed after her adorable dog Brodey aka Brodey Blue Eye.

Start on

Lola’s Route

. Before the dihedral, fire up the crux arete upright (micro Camalots to #1 Camalot -burly), then finish up and left in the right-facing corner to a 2 Mussy hook top anchor under a roof.

There exist another top anchor if exiting upright. Go after it for a FA of your own if you so desire (unless I get it done when I come back. :)

Brodey’s Route

Con Gaz

Last Tango

Van Damage

Code Red

The McDavid Bro Sesh (aka Bro Sesh)

The Orb

Lola’s Route

Rumors of Glory

Sin Gaz

Sinopia

Double Impact

Pesky

The Borg

This route was a belated b-day gift to my best friend Gina, named after her adorable miniature dog Lola.

Climb up then slight left up a slab into a dihedral (trad, small wire, cams and two #2 Camalots). Stem above the second #2 Camalot (see the beta picture) to the only bolt (crux), step right, place a cam, and climb leftward to a ledge. From the ledge, climb up a slab following a well-protected, discontinuous crack system. Left hand layback to an easy-to-miss #0.4 (small grey) Camalot, and finish to a 2 Mussy hook top anchor.

Con Gaz is the left start to

Sinopia

or

Sin Gaz

. It is essentially a techy V9-ish boulder problem to a giant ledge. This is a nice, little addition to an already stacked crag for roped bouldering. Great work, Ted.

This takes the corner system just to the right of

Sinopia

and its variations. Although the hard part is pretty short, it's engaging, pumpy, and fun, and with care, it can be protected well. If it were a little longer, it would be three stars, for sure. There's a good anchor just to the left of where you exit the corner.

Van Damage is the second climb from the left on Frisky Cliff, tucked up high in the slot. Begin by clipping the first bolt on

The Orb

(pre-clip is useful), move up into underclings in the hanging roof, then head left, passing six more bolts to anchors where the wall turns slabby.

The climb follows the flared, incipient crack-like feature, and the clips are close together to keep you off the back wall. OK, it's a bit 'gym-bolted,' but you really do want it that way, and as a result you'll need to incorporate a couple of tough clips into your sequence. On the flip side, you can sit right across from the route at the top of the slot and scope out every hold!

This is great, overhanging power-endurance climbing. It doesn't really let up from the ground to the anchor.

Per

Tim P

: the bolt line to climber's left at the very end of the gully is an alternate start, Double Impact.

We were looking to bolt a "warm-up" at Frisky, and well, by virtue of being the easiest sport route at the main part of the cliff, I suppose it is—once you have it wired, sort of, maybe.... Anyway, Code Red is a good climb in its own right and well worth doing.

Climb a grey slab past a bolt to a ledge, and stretch up for a high clip. Move slightly right into the corner, and come back left under the roof, then move up steep, juggy terrain toward the arete. A crux compression sequence on the arete takes you to a good horizontal and some fun crack moves to the finishing roof/mantel. The anchors are up over the lip.

This is a relatively new (2014? I can't recall) right start to

The Orb

, joining

The Orb

for its final two bolts. Stick-clip a high first bolt, and power your way up laybacks and underclings into a hanging bulge feature below the short black corner on

The Orb

. Make crux power moves on sidepulls, a slippery crimp, and a fingerlock to gain a good edge. Kneebar jessery leads on into

The Orb's

upper power-endurance business.

Some start with the second or even third bolt pre-clipped. Frisky Cliff is a judgment-free zone, so feel free to do this as well.

This is a really good route to sesh out on with your bros and bro-ettes.

This was the farthest left route on the cliff. Hike up a dead end gully-chasm to reach the route. It has very powerful climbing up the gently overhanging wall with surprisingly bad grips. The holds do get better after the third bolt and on the dog does not seem that hard (compared to the climbing below), but you do carry the pump to the anchors. A hold broke in the middle of the crux solidifying the grade, but the route has since been redpointed.... Oh and don't worry you won't hit the wall behind you if you fall.

This has great movement but is a little crumbly, so only two stars. A short route, so boulderers should fare well.

Rumors of Glory ascends the overhang on the far right side of Frisky Cliff (just to the right of the

Borg

).  This climb is only about 10 moves long and more like a V7/8 boulder problem.  While the climbing is pretty casual for the first half of the overhang, the latter part is bouldery and a bit heady, especially the final throw to the lip. Even though there is a chipped hold, "Rumors" is a lot of fun and makes for a great summer climb.

Sin Gaz is a great recent (2011) addition to the Frisky Cliff.

Begin with the same funky dihedral start of

Sinopia

. Three bolts of corner climbing deposit you on a huge ledge. After getting it all back, jump right into the routes crux - an overhanging dihedral/face.  Either get fierce with the crimps near the vertical seam on the right or throw big to the perfectly water-sculpted hueco.

Sin Gaz heads right from the hueco (

Sinopia

goes left) into a brilliant layback sequence ending at the lightbulb sloper jug.  From there, one more techy sequence separates you from the finishing jugs and anchor.

This is an excellent, featured, overhung granite route and will appeal to those looking for a change of pace from the Boulder Canyon tech-nasty slabs and smear intensive faces. And at 8,500 feet, it's a great summer spot for those looking to escape the heat (shade until approximately 2pm in the summer).

Sinopia is the second route from the left. This route looks Waaay easier than it is.

Stick clip the first bolt, because it looks 5.7...but it's not. Climb past three bolts including the first up a corner which deposits you on a ledge. Sit, lay down, have lunch, whatever, but rest before tackling the headwall. Clip two bolts off the ledge and tackle the first crux. Either a big throw if you're tall or pimpin' small grips if not. Shake out and head left to the next crux, technical climbing brings you to the lip and final clip. Don't fall here. There is a kind of a funky last move getting established on the slab. This is a good route.

Double Impact is the leftmost route at Frisky Cliff. Hike up the gully to its end and look for bolts moving up a series of undercling holds. This is an alternate start to

Van Damage

.

The climb starts on a sidepull crimp and then moves quickly into a succession of underclings. Trend right as you move through the underclings, and then reach for the crack. Establish yourself into the hand jams, rest your biceps, and then finish on

Van Damage

.

The rock down low is a bit crumbly, so watch where you place your feet. Belayers should be prepared to dodge some rock dust.

Clip the first two bolts for safety and rope management.

Climb a featured slab to short V-slot to a slab section moving left over the big roof. The V-slot is easier than it looks, but it's not a featured face. It is somewhat grungy, especially in the slot. There is slabby climbing up high. This will feel easy for experienced granite trad climbers and potentially hard for those used to face climbing.

This very bouldery route traverses out the massive overhang on the right side of the Frisky Cliff. A stout first dyno and swing, then heelhooks and crimps to a short corner and tricky slab. This route had its 15 minutes of fame when Ben Moon of the UK was photographed for Climbing Magazine in a snowstorm on this route. Some have argued for a harder grade but for today's bouldering mutants this may prove a pleasant morning's outing. Morning shade, well worth the hike.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Frisky Cliff