This is the SDS / low to

Eric Varney Direct

. Start matched on the lowest rail. The big left pod / heel jug is on for hands and feet, whereas it is off for

Moffat Direct

(V8). The crimp rail just below the soap dish is on. From the dish, move up to a not great, three finger left hand drag and then right to a two finger pocket. Finish by going left to a potato chip.

This is the more obvious and higher quality of the

Eric Varney

/

Moffat

lines, IMO.

Beta:

https://vimeo.com/15000868#t=0m32s

... if you're taller, you'll need to get your right hip into the wall and throw a left heel into the jug near the start.

Varney Direct Low

Moffat Direct

East Overhang Right

Red Wall Direct

Right Side

Standard Route

Griffith Direct

East Overhang Left

Gorilla Traverse

Red Wall Traverse

Center Left

Right-to-Left Red Wall Traverse

Eric Varney Direct

Just Another Traverse

Far Right Side aka Right Right Side

A Short Cool Red One

This is a great problem! Vertical pocket pulling!

Start with your right hand in an infamous, sloping dish and left in the heel hook jug for the

Center Left

route.  Cross over with the left to a small, not too good, three finger edge.  Your right hand goes directly above it to a shallow, two finger pocket, left hand out to a good edge, then up.  Tweaky.

This problem starts on the flake below and right of the large pod and climbs through "Varney Direct".

Start on the big, obvious pebble and pull up and over the bulge using another pebble and some slopers.

Another great CG variation: start with both hands in "The Pod" at the center of the wall, make a big move with the right hand to the first 3-finger edge on Varney Direct, then another big move up and left to the "potato chip" crimp. Top out easily from here.

This is one of Flag's classic hard problems, very height-dependent. Start with your left hand in the notorious sloping dish that is the right handhold for the [Eric Varney] route. (I use the crimp on the bottom of this dish) right hand in a little pocket. Smear your right foot in a slippery pod, and make a large reach for a shitty crystal, then bump again for a good obvious pod. It is a classic problem that should make even seasoned boulderers think twice.

Begin in the low dish and move up LEFT hand to the pocket that you use with your right hand for "

Center Left

." Skate out right a bit and finish up the center of the wall.  A bit stiff at V3 perhaps.

Sit start with your left hand in the small pocket, and try a high right heel. Climb pebbles to the top.

Start on the sloping holds on the lip and pull over onto the slab using a few small holds.

Start on east side of boulder. Sit low matching hands on a fractured cobble all the way right in a gully with tree roots under your butt. Northern most start. Traverse the lip all the way left then mantle just before you could step off.

Start on the left side of Red Wall at an obvious pocket and move right along the rail system to the pod and flake below. Reach right to a thin sidepull and very thin edges below the start of Red Wall Right Hand. Use these to set up for the start of that problem and finish up it. Sequences may vary for individuals, but all the holds are pretty bad no matter which you use.

Apparently repeated and graded at V8 by Ted Lanzano. I think it's harder but have adjusted the grade.

This is a classic line that is rated V3 in all the guidebooks but feels at least V4 to me, oh well, ratings smatings.

Start on the center left of the wall on some jugs.  Throw a heel in an obvious jug and move with the right hand up and into a shallow, three finger pocket, mantle onto your left foot, and pinch two dicey pebbles to reach the top.

Start matched on the starting flake below "the pod," and traverse right-to-left into

Griffith Direct

.

Begin about 6 feet to the right of the tree (just before the wall turns the corner) by matching on the obvious smooth horizontal hold. The business starts right away and continues until the low flakes in the middle of the wall.  Then you can get a needed rest before the final stab move to the left pocket and top out.  Depending on your beta, the whole thing is around 20 moves, plus a few more for the topout.

This is the problem just left of the tree. Start right hand on a quartzy edge, left hand on a poor pocket. Pull up to the crystal on the left (on RH Red Wall), then grab the top with the right hand. Traverse off left to finish or climb down the tree.

This is another Red Wall link-up. Climb

Just Another Traverse

into Eric Varney. It's crimp-nasty the whole way!

Description

Routes in Red Wall