This is the yin to Generator Crack's yang. Tight and sometimes painful fingerlocks with super bad feet is what this climb is all about. It's pretty much a boulder problem pulling the bulge and then a perfect hands 5.7 crack to the top. Fun!

Conductor Crack

Generator Crack

The Blade

Cool Wheel (aka The Gauntlet)

How is this route not on here yet? This is the classic "Let's go flail on an off width since we're in Yosemite" climb. There is literally no approach and it is super easy to TR. So if you want to try out a 5.10 ow in Yosemite, throw on a top-rope and commence struggling. Most people I've talked to seem to think the bottom section is the crux but I don't think it's too bad if you have some basic levitation technique. Transitioning into the squeeze up higher however, is a grunt any way I know to do it.

A half decent tips crack that offers a nice lack of crowds. There's a tree anchor a ways above, best bring a few slings to extend it for the TR. Easily walked to the top of.

This is a great route to practice inversion technique. It's located right off the side of the road. Park at the generator station and walk up the trail past

Conductor Crack

. Keep walking east for another 100 feet and you'll pass by another large boulder. Walk around to the east side of the boulder and you'll see a smaller boulder perched next to it. This boulder has a 10 ft tall corner leading up to a roof. Above the roof is a crack that widens from hands to off-width. This is The Gauntlet. To set a toprope, scramble around to the right. You could maybe boulder it if you want, with some pads protecting the rock below, but you probably won't since you might fall on your head.

Start with finger locks and liebacking in the corner. Undercling out the roof and sink a great handjam at the lip, then a fist jam, and then you flip upside down and throw your foot in above you. Use hand-stacks to scoot your foot jam up. Eventually you'll need to un-invert which is the crux of the route. A route that's sure to give you washboard abs in no time.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Az. Generator Station