This is an easy to protect trad route.  It is a fun way to continue practicing trad on Practice wall.  Kate's 1st trad is even easier.

Dragon's Tail

Acrophobiacs Anonymous

Slabalito

Sheet Rock

Beta Spewer

Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken

Creeping Elegance

Crescent Moon

Crescendo

Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni

Short and Sweet

Slither and Squeeze

Night Foxx

[Redacted]

BDSM

Low Exposure

The Handout

Another One Fights the Rust

Smear Tactics

Dragon's Mouth

Sweet and Sour

Kate's 1st Trad Lead

A Happy Ending

Shawty

Kind of an awkward route and a bit tough to onsite. The pocket sequence can be a bit confusing, especially towards the top.

Start with a low crux below the first bolt. Then work your way up the easy low angle face on big holds and big feet. This route is pretty sandy.

Climb the left of the three slab routes that you see first when you walk up the trail to the Practice Wall.

An easy start leads to and fun reachy crux about halfway through the climb. This is a really cool route which has a nice flowing crux.

Start up the chimney formed by the large flake and top it out. Then move up and right (or right and up) to the first high bolt. A long stick clip is required to snag it from the ground. Some weird moves get you to a nice rest. Pump out to the anchors.

Climb okay holds up to a nice side pull/jug then get the next side pull.  Get established and reach for a good crimp.  Reach up high for a giant jug that looks like a horn. Go left a bit on good holds then fire up to a decent hold then reach the anchors with big jugs again.

This is the arete to the left of Beta Spewer, the route is different from everything to the left because it is overhung with big hold, a good introduction to RRG.

The crux comes between the second bolt and the anchors, just look for good holds the are there.

bouldery start gains good moves to a solid reachy move past a blank section. depending on how you decide to move after the second bolt, the difficulty can vary!

This is a short face to the right of Sweet and Sour 5.5.

You can climb either side of the bolts. The start is the crux followed by more moderate climbing. For an added treat sit start it.

This dinky dihedral is harder than it looks.  The corner crack starts off fingertips-thin, and there's not much in the way of feet on the faces.  In spite of its short length, not a good choice for neophyte trad leaders.

When you walk into The Practice Wall, this route is the squeeze chimney just right of the trad route Short and Sweet (5.7). The route identifier for this route lists it at 5.6 but there is no way it is that difficult. The RRG guidebook has it listed as 5.2 so I used that rating.

Step into the chimney and use huge feet and hands and climb up to the light above. Inside the chimney you have an abundance of holds for your feet and hands. The crux is the top out.

Climb the left leaning ramp up to what looks like a plated face. Crimp and heel hook your way off the ramp and onto the face. Pretty much continuous crimping after leaving the ramp. Really neat route.

This short climbs has an easy bottom to a crux just before the chains. Climb past two bolts to the anchors using large edges until the crux which has thinner hands and feet.

Short Crack with tough boulder problem down low. Low traffic, lots of spiders.

Easier start gains a thin crimpy section near the top. This route tops out and the anchors are located above the lip on a large boulder. If you follow the bolt lines directly it is harder than 5.8, the 5.8 climbs just right of the bolt line then shifts back left at the top.

This route was an open project until recently when it was done at 12b.

I have found that most hard climbers avoid the practice wall like the plague due to the short walls and easy routes but I would urge all of you to swing by for at least this route!

The Handout starts on a large right undercling when you reach out left to a worse undercling and throw a large cross to a good ledge. This incredibly fun move sets the tone for the rest of the route with a solid pump factor with some low percentage stabs to pockets, and a couple of bad pinches.

Great flow and awesome holds (in this climbers opinion) definitely make this route a must do at the grade!

Stick clip the first bolt. Haul past a pretty hard move to easier but not very good climbing to a dirty ledge. Can Continue up a 5.7 slabby sport climb to the top.

Stick clipping the first bolt is highly recommended. The crux is getting to and past the first bolt and falling here would be ugly. The climber needs to be careful not to kick their belayer while starting the route. It's very balancy. The anchors are a bit hidden from below but obvious once you pull the ledge.

Chimney next to Dragon's Tail.  The route is a little dirty, and lowering back through the chimney is awkward and is probably just like lowering into the mouth of a dragon with all the protruding "teeth" on the sides of the walls.

Climb the obvious short dihedral to the right of Yu Stin Ki Pu.

Most people solo this one but it does take good fist-sized gear.

A low crux leads to easier climbing at the top.

This is a good route to demonstrate how to properly place gear.

After climbing Another One Fights the Rust the route climbs low angle juggy slab to the top of the cliff. It is dirty but solid rock.

The crux comes in reaching the chains. The is a really cool clipping open hand pinch to clip the chains.

This is the best of the three routes on this section of wall in my opinion.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Practice Wall