Two or three nice hand jams on an otherwise unremarkable climb. 

  I suspect most people would not enjoy this climb even though I did.

Jamin

Aging Isn't  For Wimp's

Piston Bully

Flakey Bats

Small Sanity

Black Lightning

It's About the Six

Droppin' In

Dry Toolin' the Garden

Savin my Sanity

Holly The Hot Doc

Rockin America

Reachin For The Sky

The Lemmon Sanction

Black Rattler

Lost Again

C. Bailey

Small Town Boy

The route is the short nice crack in a corner that turns left near the top.  Too short to really be worth while. 

  There is a very nice rock just east of where this route tops out which looks like an eagle taking off.

This climb starts on a short slab,then goes into steep technical face moves for about 30Ft. then eases up.I believe their is a 5.10R gear route that goes up a small seam to the left closer to C.Bailey put up by Eric Rhicard and friends!

I'm sure others climbed must have done this, or TR'd it at least, but I cleaned out a few placements and thought it was a perfectly good lead. If you brought a rack, you may as well do this route too.  The start is easier than it looks.  

 At the very top I traversed left to the anchors for Small Town Boy.  (Looked like I could have used a directional before traversing for a follower, but I was alone.)  It didn't seem too exposed, but you could move left earlier and clip the last bolt on STB and go straight up instead.

 Seemed 5.8 at best, easier than SMS  See what you think.

Fun challenging crimpy face climbing with plenty of rests.  Two cruxes: first one pulling through the second bolt (balancy and technichal), the other from the 4th to 5th bolt.  There's a runout between bolts 3 & 4 on very easy ground and you clip the 4th bolt from a huge ledge (so it's pretty tame and you could get gear if you wanted it). Above this ledge, there are two distinct lines to climb, both about at the same grade: go left of the bolts into a short crack (a hand jam is helpful) and then up to really nice holds and a good clipping stance, OR go right of the bolts on the face using crimps and a few jugs.  Right is more sustained and the clipping stance isn't as comfy, but it's fun face climbing. 

  Edited: The FA party brought a big crowbar up and pulled on the partially detached block and couldn't move it.  It's well attached on one half and solid, even though it sounds hollow. I'm not great at grading climbs, so this may be anywhere from 5.9 to 10b.  

  A good route that's got more challenging climbing than the other 5.9 climb I did in the area.  Definitely worth getting on if you're there. Thanks for putting it up, Nick and Kristina!

Crux is getting over the roof bulge.  It may be a bit height dependent and felt like the hard end of 5.9 to me (under 6').  Fun moves though.

Some thin moves but nothing too rough.  This climb has one less loose foothold as of 11/6/06.  Ouch.

Slabby start to face climbing above,the roof crux move is reachy and height dependent.

This climb is on the East wall and shares the first two bolts at the start of Piston Bully.The rock quality on this wall is excellent. Excellent route to learn gear placement skills on, as the placements are very secure and easy to find.

The Crux is down low and protected with two bolts.This climb is the most obvious crack that angles left and shares the same anchors as Flakey Bats.

The climbing really doesn't start on this climb till the last 30Ft.The lower part is really low angle slab climbing that isn't very good,but the upper part has great rock with almost vertical hard sustained bolt protected moves.

Bolts get farther apart as you climb but can be filled in with gear.

Bug Spring has two walls, east and a west wall. The west wall has nine climbs, the east wall has six. Grades range 5.7 to 5.10. This area faces northwest and doesn't get sun till noon. A good place to climb in the spring, fall and winter when we have moderate temps and not too much wind. The rock is granite that is mostly solid with some small loose stuff here and there. Horizontal cracks offer lots of handholds and gear placements.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bug Spring Wall