Straightforward route up 35-45 degree snow slopes with possible seasonal alpine ice. One can cut in from the col between North and Prouty Point, traversing moderate snow to join this route, making for a very direct climb and cutting out lots of circuitous gendarme navigation and the first half of the "terrible traverse."

West Face- Right

South Ridge

This is the standard route up North Sister. You start from the saddle between Middle and North at about 9,000 ft and follow the ridge. In summer this ridge is really unpleasant and potentially dangerous class 2-3. There are a couple gendarmes on the ridge that provide route finding difficulties. Once at the summit pinnacle you traverse left (ideally on steep snow) for a couple hundred feet to the "bowling alley," a 4th class gully that leads to the true summit.  

  In winter/spring conditions this route is a fun alpine climb with steep snow and rime that can easily be simul-soloed in a day from Pole Creek TH. Approaching this way can also give you the opportunity to go directly to the ridge crest up one of the SE facing gullies, adding more steep snow and making for a shorter, more direct climb by cutting the corner and avoiding the lower half of the ridge.

The fourth tallest peak in Oregon. There are at least eleven routes on North Sister. 

  The rock is volcanic detritus. 

  Northwest Forest pass required at trailheads.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Sister