Start to the left of walrus with your left hand in a pocket on the blunt arete and your right on a small crimp above you. The crux is definitely the start and will be harder for a taller climber. This boulder is big and there is a tree and a rock to contend with so could be scary without enough pads. Pull the start using either brute strength and tenacity, or with a heel hook on the left hand start hold. There is an open pinch on the arete as well as a small in-cut pocket if you can get to it. Angle up and right bisecting the face with good technique, use the jug if you need to rest, otherwise catch the good crimp, throw for the rail, and keep the feet on with some mindful smearing. Top out on the highest point of the boulder with the right hand and maybe a foot on the nice arete. Don't worry the worst is below you, you'll make it, just don't let got or it could hurt. I tried to start as Walrus starts with both hand on an undercling deep underneath, but could not find a way to shift left and up once out of overhang, It is possible, I'm just not strong enough, probably goes at V9 or 10.

Eyeful of High

American Freedom Association

Stompin Hippies

Walrus

Smoothie

Rug Rat

I am

Skidmark

High Ride

UMWA Dyno

UMWA Problem

Reach Around

Fruity

That Zucchini

Crescent Moon

This climb is actually really good if you can ignore some of the sandiness.  The rock definitely leaves a little bit to be desired.  However, the moves are fantastic and this one should not be missed.

Start sitting with two good crimps, move to the jug side-pull (that i'm assuming has gotten bigger), making a big move to slopers at the lip.  It looks like people are trying to take the easy way out moving way right to top out but don't cheat yourself by bailing too far out right.  Apparently there is some super, secret heelhook beta but I didn't see it.

Originally rated v11, this climb has obviously broken a few times and gotten easier.  The bro's on braha.nu are still taking v9 but I'm not sure how they sleep... I bet this climb is easier if you're tall and will probably continue to change as holds break.  Please don't climb this when it's wet, it's a sandy muthafucker,

Crimps to crimp flakes to pockets to jugs.

Start low on sidepulls and make some hard moves out to the lip. Tricky mantle at the end...

Start on some jugs and traverse over and up to a fun mantle. Be careful of the pine tree

SDS in pockets three feet up.  Move straight up the techy face.  Think gaston.  A bit of an eliminate up top since the proper finish avoids the juggy arete feature but a worthwhile problem nonetheless.

This problem tests power and technique with a dash of highball for flavor.  SDS in underclings and make a desperate first move to a jug out right.  Work your left hand up the right-trending rail until you are in position to throw to the left trending arete with your right hand.  Establish on the arete with your right hand and make a tenuous move to stand-up on the right trending rail you used for your left hand.  Continue straight up for the easy but highball top out.  Classic!

stand start arete using different holds to the top

start in a 3 finger pocket and on a crimp - cruise straight up

Just to the right of the UMWA Problem.  Begin with your left hand in the pocket, right hand on a good sidepull out right, hike your feet, and lunge to the rail.

On the left side of the road-facing side of the boulder.  Right hand starts in a pocket, left hand on a sidepull.  Move up to a pocket, over to the juggy rail, then top.

Start on large hueco down low. Move up through numerous slopey pockets and dishes to an oblong pocket and a rounded finish.

stand start arete, climb good holds to top

A fill-in thats kinda ok...Start on Reach Around and go right through a zucchini tufa, crimp, and top'r with some sloper/pocket business.

Start standing with both hands matched on the bottom part of the crescent rail. Follow the arching rail upwards to a long move to a good hold at the lip.

Fun movement and friendly holds on flawless rock. Definitely worth checking out if you're in the area.

Description

Protection

Routes in UMWA Boulder