Bloody Mary

Bottoms Up

Situational Distress

Obsessed Driller

Leap Frog

Green Monster Crack

Reachy Riley

Wheres Mike

Insane Pilot

Hail-N-Rain

Dunka Dunk

Neaker's

New Years Day

Spinal Arc

Car Bomb

Going

Cheers

Little Rubber Ducky

Hollowpoint

Dont Bolt Me

Hard Feelings

F...n' Battery

Branch Breaker

Input

Profane

On the Rocks

Dunka

Simpsons Survival

Touching The Void

Crazy Hobby

Dirty Woman

Funky Noises

Fat Tire

Lichen

The crux is at the first two bolts.After making several hard bouldering type moves and clipping the third bolt,the climbing is about 5.8 to the top.

This route is on the same buttress as Cheers.  It starts on the north face and rotates around onto the west face after the third bolt.  The overhanging sections and small roofs make this look harder than it is, but bomber jugs can be found for most of the daunting moves.  See Cheers for directions to the rock and a photographic topo.

The route follows some crack systems in a corner, past a small tree to the top.

Location: Boot Hill south, to the right of existing climbBlood Mary.Short, fun face climb.

This route starts on the north-facing slab to the right of Cheers, on the left side of a gap/chimney.  Start straight up the slab on easy climbing to the first bolt, then follow the pro to the chains shared with Lichen.

The crux is down low and above a ledge with dicey pro.The moment your out of the crux stand on a big ledge where you will encounter a short offwidth.This offwidth is very secure, but wear pants because its pretty rough on the right knee! This crack is the most obvious line that goes up the middle of a bright green face.You'll notice this face from the Prison Camp parking lot on the left.Squeezing The Lemmon II... by Eric Rhicard says, this crack has been climbed but does not know by whom or when or how hard it is.This climb is #2 on the Boothill topo!

Interesting climbing for 20 feet, then easy climbing to the chains. "Trad" only because of the 20-30 feet between the last bolt and the chains. You could could protect this part with a medium cam or two. 

This is located on the north facing wall just west of Cheers on a face to the right of a flake system (Situational Distress) and an arete (Insane Pilot).  Look for a belay bolt at the bottom.  Climb up and over two small roofs.

This is an north-west facing arete around the corner west of Cheers -- the arete to the right of Wheres Mike.  Follow the bolts with good hands and feet.  Protection is easy to place from good stances.  Watch out for loose rock on this one.  Long chains at the top.  This route got its name from the nutcase pilot that was buzzing the ridges in the area while the route was being developed.

The crux is above a big ledge. Having an attentive belayer is good here till you clip the 3rd bolt. After the short crux climbing is easy 5.9 on excellent rock.

This is the right of the two routes around the corner from Insane Pilot (5.7).  Climbing is on good edges with long pulls between.  Well worth climbing.

Start up gap between rocks and onto ledge then up.  Gets a little grungy at the top.  It'd be a decent first lead.

This is a good lead route, but you need to "tram" yourselfin on top rope, since it is a corner climb.This climb is immediatly to the right of Obsessed Driller.These two climbs were established on New Years Day 2005By Andy Peters and J.Miller

This is a very fun sporty, short climb near the left end of the boot hill climbs.  It is just left of the climb hollowpoint on the same face.  Although it is not much to look at it does have some very fun moves on the slightly overhanging face.

This route is worth the hike up the hill to get to it.  Its a pumpy vertical to slightly overhung face with thin ledges for feet and hands and bomber hand holds right where and when you need them.  Turn right at the top of the trail and look for an obvious west facing triangular face (narrow on the bottom and wider at the top) with two sets of chains in the middle and the left top.  There is a slab on the right side of the route.  Boulder up the slab to clip the first bolt, then step across onto the face, or back down and do it from the bottom with a TR from the first bolt.  Resist the urge to go straight up from the bottom on lead - it is 10a/b moves on very questionable rock.  Follow the bolts, staying mostly to the right. You are heading for the set of chains just left of the angled crack at middle of the wall.

Fun Face climb with thin moves and a few finger pockets.

This route is about 6 feet to the right of Fat Tire (labeled route 9 on the overview topo).  Start in a thin seam that protects by a small nut and small cam.  Climb to the short right facing dihedral and top out on the Fat Tire anchors.

I called this a "trad" route because there is a significant runout from the last bolt to the chains (on very easy ground) that is protect-able with a nut or cam.  Without that gear, there is potential for a possible ground-fall; however a confident 5.9 leader may safely choose to skip this nut placement. 

  Crux comes just as you pass the first bolt and is well protected.  Fun climbing up the corner to easier ground above.  3 or 4 bolts to long runout to chains.  Though the runout is on very easy ground, there is a crack that takes finger-sized nuts so you might as well stick one in there. Shares chains with Input (right) and Branch Breaker (left).

Climb past some bulges down low. Eases up toward the top.  "Trad" only because of the 20-30 feet between the last bolt and the chains. You could protect this part with a medium cam or two.

The start could be called anything between 5.9 and 5.10. The last half is about 5.8 or 5.9. The climb to the chains above the last bolt has some good runout but is easier slab climbing as oposed to the technical start. I am not that good yet with understanding Arizona ratings though; I thought it was easier than 'cheers'. The first half of this climb is really awesome. -Joseph Stover

Short route, some fun moves on nice edges but only for about 20 feet, then easy to top.

Corner climb,the 2nd on TR should clean draws.

Climbing is on stellar green rock with fun roof moves half way up.  There are some extremely closely spaced bolts on this climb (very un-Mt.Lemmon) that can cause dangerous rope rubbing if the leader lowers off.  Better to save fraying your rope and rap.  Well worth climbing.

This is the first of two routes to the right and around the corner from Insane Pilot (5.7.  It starts out on a slab and slowly transfers to vertical climbing through hard to spot holds.  There are several fun moves off of underclings.  The route is well bolted and worth climbing.

Short face climb, just past Fireplace on the far southern end of Boot Hill.The names of these climbs are in tribute to the movie:"TOUCHING THE VOID"I would like to name the wall "ALPINE FACE"However it has not been named yet.

This route is on the far end of Boot Hill south, just past Fireplace, same elevation on a small face.

According to an old topo, this route in on Fireplace and is to the right of "F...n' Battery". I'm not sure where this route ends. There didn't appear to be anchors on the right side of the pinnacle, so to lower, you'd have to traverse left over to the anchors for "Reachy Riley" and "F...n' Battery." Either that, or make a gear anchor, belay up a follower, and then transfer over to the chain anchors. 

The route is right when you arrive at the base from the approach trail.  The Route climbs and steps right over corners.  The route is considerably harder if you go straight up.

This route climbs over well-bolted roof onto easier slab above.  Vertically challenged climbers may release "Funky Noises" during the fun roof move.  

Great sport route with a tricky start.  The only downfall is that it is short.

This is located to the right of Leap Frog, on the other side of a gap/chimney.  Start on the arete left of the route to reach and clip the first bolt, then follow the protection and bolts to the chains shared with Leap Frog.

Boot Hill is the obvious north-facing cliff above the Prison Camp campground to the southeast. It appears in "Squeezing the Lemmon" on page 135 with a handful of routes developed in 1989 by Doug Lantz and Diane Vetter. More recently (since July 2004), the crag has been adopted and developed by Andy Peter and Steve Kanoza. They have added 29 new routes (5.5 to 5.11), mostly sport and mixed routes with chains or Metolius rap hangers. The rock varies from crumbly to solid - test the holds and watch out for rockfall. The routes are mostly on the north and west faces, so most routes are shady most of the day, but some sunshine can be had in the afternoon. The low elevation and shade should mean comfortable temps for early Spring and late Fall days as well as warm Winter days.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Boot Hill