Amazing climbing on this long pitch. Great gear where you need it, fun holds of all sizes and types, incredible movement, and just enough spice to make the lead truly memorable.

Lipstick

Hi Pro Glow (original line)

High Pro Glow

Facets of the Mined

Mirror Image

Al Dente

Ruby

Ringtail Cat

Sidewinder

Hat Trick

Graceland

Ice is Nice

This link-up of Lipstick and Graceland is a little gem with several really fun sections. Do the thin moves at the start of Lipstick, then cut up the left-angling seam/crack to the crux crack of Graceland, climb it, bust back right to do some fun, airy bolted moves on the upper face, and finish right out along the ledge system to the chains for Lipstick.

start at the boulder in the hallway, and enjoy the straightforward, bomber cam placements in the first 30 feet, because it gets trickier.  when your right foot is on the left side of the big roof (the roof onto which sidewinder traverses from the right), you will be able to peek over and see hardman Joe T (or somebody's) rusty old pin.  You could go right here or climb up a bit and then head over when your feet are just above the pin.  sling stuff extra long in this area.  after numerous placements that seem either tiny or dubious or both, you will arrive at the big crack.  you will want a #5 camalot.  You can leave the offwidth at the horizontal, where you will encounter the last bolt of sidewinder and then the sidewinder chains.  if continuing up the offwidth, you will perhaps want a #6, and I didn't see any chains up there, but I did see chossy looking rock and opportunities for groveling and/or heroics

Another typical Lemmon trad climb; gear protected face climbing with bottoming cracks, plates, edges, and knobs.   Start at the boulder in the hallway, climbing flakes and cracks between the two roofs, to a bulge just above the righthand roof. Above this move left (to join Lipstick) on good edges, incuts, and sidepulls to gain a thin crack that shoots to the top with increasingly large holds. A big cam may be nice for the last moves, but isn't neccessary. 

  At some point this route received an R, most likely due to sketchy rock that has since been removed. Using small cams and nuts it is possible to completely sew this line up and the rock quality is as good as most other routes around.

Trend diagonally right through a thin face with crimps, sidepulls, and pinches. Some shenanigans for the feet stepping through and high stepping on some fairly tiny nubbins at times.

 There's a beautiful series of quite unmountlemmonlike underclings through the middle.

 I think the substantially easier finish really makes this a 2.5 star route. But with the incredible view of the Pinaleños, Galiuros, and San Pedro River Valley complementing the experience, it seems to make more sense to round up than down.

Another long Red Diamond Wall climb: sustained from the get-go until a rest before the off-width at the top. Although the rock looks suspect (esp. at the bottom), everything felt solid. Seems to protect well enough in spite of original "R" rating. (edit: the prevailing consensus is that MI is still R in spite of our new gadgetry. although the gear on the first half is plentiful, most of it might be considered psychological rather than reliable...) My guess is the name was derived from MI's similarity to "High Pro Glow" which too follows incipient cracks before finishing with an off-width. The similarities however end there as MI is a spectacular line.

My favorite route at Red Diamond wall, which is saying a lot since they're all real good. One thin crux at the start will get your immediate attention  (do NOT fall while clipping!), then great moves up and through the next crux. Will keep your attention all the way to the chains.

A moderate route that is overshadowed in both quality and difficulty by its neighbors. 

  The gear was a bit sparse but not unsafe.

This long and winding sport route doesn't really have a stand-out crux but multiple tricky sections that might make you study the rock to the find the line.  The holds are all decent sized when you find them.  The upper face which is a little steeper and climbs through slanting rails is particularly good.  Be careful when lowering.  Even with a 60m rope I had to down climb a bit.

Climb thin cracks (crux) to just below the prow where the crack forks. Take the right side (fingers) to the widening crack above. The last 30' is flaring squeeze chimney/offwidth. This is where a big (5 friend) piece might be nice, otherwise it's a long way without reliable gear. Belay from large boulders on top.   A very good route with real climbing in the first half.

A beautiful line that requires a solid trad skills and a bit of a cool head.  Start in the right facing dihedral about 15 feet right of Ringtail Cat.  Climb the dihedral and gain the crack system above.  A series of bolts appears on the right (these are for "Ruby") ignore these, instead move up and left to a single bolt.  Clip it and head straight up to a committing move protected by tricky gear.  Continue to the top.  A rappel anchor is on the right after topping out, make sure your rope is long enough.

Farthest right route on Red Diamond Wall. Moderate climbing leads to a rest followed by 20 feet of fun vertical arete climbing to the anchors shared with a 5.12 sport climb, Facets of the Mind (which is a worthwhile TR, or lead). The climb is worth doing and has good rock, though the hard/interesting part is too short for me to give it more than one star.

A beautiful, steep wall in a secluded setting makes this a treat for the eye, body, and mind. The routes are long single pitches, mostly traditional with an adventurous feel. Rock quality is generally quite good, with interesting plates and incuts. Facing east means morning sun and great afternoon shade. Fires and monsoons have made the approach less than ideal; eliminating any trail that may have existed past the ridge. Be prepared to do some scree-skiing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Red Diamond Wall