Prominent arete at eastern-end of the Dogwood Crag. Stiff crimpy climbing down low; steep with big moves up top.

Cross-Eyed and Painless

Unforgiven

Take Me To The River

Quartzite Sans Stainless

Dirty Unknown

Little Things

Cockroach Slip

Slinga Tree

Little Critters

I Think I'm Going Bald

On the Skids

Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco

Little Creatures

Modest Man From Drakeman

A Modest Man from Mandrake

Unknown

Golemoly

Haven't A Clue

Top-Rope Tough Guy

Life During Wartime

Hyper-Gamma Spaces

Sandpaper Cloud

Drunken Crack

Lion of Zion, The

Starts with an overhanging boulder problem past two bolts (11d). The fun part (trad) of the route starts off a ledge above the two bolts and climbs an awkward and sequential set of cracks. Gear fits well in the left-hand crack and fingers fits securely in between the chocks that fill up the right-hand crack. Fun climb, super pumpy, well-protected, but kinda dirty.

I climbed this the day Chris put it up, and provided my meager input on the rating.  We both agreed it sat at 5.9+, with only one move justifying the +.  The route almost exactly follows a line from bolt to bolt, so don't meander much or you'll end up on another route.  Start about 15' left of the small corner and roof that make up the first section of "I Think I'm Going Bald" (approximately 50' east of the west-most line of bolts on Dogwood).  Ascend the slick face via good holds up and right to the first bolt.  From this stance, look directly above you and the line of bolts becomes evident.  Move up increasingly delicate and balancy moves past the third bolt where the climbing becomes significantly easier.  As with most of the Dogwood climbs, walking off is often preferable to a rap into the creek.  Not a bad little route, and the most stout of the moderates on this crag.  The real evil lurkes further east.

This is the first line of bolts you see when entering the crag. The polished base gives it a tricky start, but once you get up past the second bolt you'll be able to fly through it with ease.

This route looks unappealing from below, but we found it to have interesting and pleasant face and crack climbing with a distinctly wild finish. There is some dirt on the bottom face, and a little guano to the left, but you need not touch the guano.

Up the face and the smooth bulge to dirtier rock above. If someone has any information about this route, feel free to edit/add/remove.

Though one always hears early in life not to sweat the little things, it seems later it is the Little Things that really matter.

This interesting climb gives you the feeling of "sea side" climbing. It is usually shaded and very cool due to its location. This was a "two brush" route, that is, I wore completely through two stout wire brushes while equipping the line. Will clean up more with traffic, I suspect, as have similar routes at The Slips and Reservoir Ridge. Fun!

Pitch #1: After getting settled at the belay, climb up some edgy and smooth bulges passing 10 bolts to a two-bolt belay, just shy of the rim. 5.8-, 33m.

Summer 2020 Update: Three bolts have been added to the bottom of the route enabling a lead starting at the waters edge. You may still need to be quite ingenious keeping your rope dry, but it is a fun option to start at the foot of the route.

Left side of the boulder. Really a V1 except that the first move if your feet start low is really hard. Landing space is pretty small, but lots of grass.

Did you like Peace During Wartime?  Wanna add an arete to the route without skipping the fun, smooth, slightly runout crux?  Slinga Tree, then!

This route starts directly under the tree to the right of Peace During Wartime.  Pull an easy, bouldery start and use the huge, horizontal branch as protection.  Continue under the branches and on to an arete with great protection.  Play around on it, then cruise left back on to Peace During Wartime to make sure you don't skip the fun, slabby finish - the more right you climb, the more difficult the route is.

This route needs a little cleaning from tree debris, but if you liked Peace During Wartime, it's a fun variation to make the route slightly more varied and sustained.

Long, easy, and dirty.  Probably not worth it unless you are looking for a reason to practice gear routes.  I believe you will need to belay from the top for the second so 2-ways are nice to hear each other.

This is probably the best of the Dogwood Right climbs.  It climbs the left route up the small roof and continues straight up the wall.  The crux, one would think is at the roof --Not So.  Up higher you will find thin smears and no fingers.  This climb gave me problems my first time up.

This is the first bolted route on the west end of Dogwood, and is an excellent warmup route for doing MMFM further down the rock.  Nice climb if you can manage to do it without the crowd.

The smooth/slimy surface (from water runoff when the water is high)on the first section is no indicator of the remainder of the climb, and the holds that are hard to see from the ground appear out of nowhere once you get closer to them and can see shadow.

I'd be more tempted to give this climb two stars if it weren't so crowded, but I'd definitely recommend climbing it (especially for the reason above).

very pumpy well for me anyway. fingers, hands liebacks, roof, stem it has it all and up through the hole at the top to chains.

Worthwhile climbing up a solid slab of rock directly right of

Modest Man From Mandrake.

Follow a zig zagging line of bolts over the featured face using positive edges and ledges. A small bulge starts things off, followed by a sharp traverse right, then left, then up to the right-most corner of the roof where a hidden bolt will appear. Pull the roof, then climb up and right over easy terrain to an independent chain anchor. This line is not much to look at, but surprisingly fun.

Approach this line buy scrambling up the large blocks right of

Hyper-Gamma Spaces

. Once on the ledge, walk right along the ledge til its ends. Look up and MMFD is the right-most line of bolts.

This sport route (6 bolts _ chains) would make a really nice training climb. The first 60' is face climbing on a multitude of good holds, which leads to a small roof which is just enough to get you pumping. Note that the climb starts from a large ledge ~15' up from the bank of the stream. So when rapping down, stop at the ledge!

Beta: There is supposedly a scramble somewhere at the midpoint of Dogwood (see the first photo in this section - the left-slanting shrub-covered diagonal?) - but we found it a little too overgrown to navigate safely. We rapped down from the chains on a 60m rope.

There are 2 chain anchors on the far west end of Dogwood that are typically used for TR's.  This is the second from the end.  Climb straight up, slotting a nut or two in facial features and utilizing horizontal cracks for cams.  Fun climbing, (only as a lead), too short though and on a way too crowded crag.

Beautiful round motion, nice side pull action, and a great bounce over the top. Be careful with the small landing area.

This climbs the right line up the small roof on the right side of Dogwood.  It is a smooth smeary type climb with a crux at the roof.  Well protected.

Last set of chains on the Dogwood Wall.  Scramble up some easy slab to the chains.  Essentially everyone top ropes this.

Smooth and not a lot of protection.  Not a bad choice for a top-rope.  This climbs the smooth slab just left of the inverted arete -- Cross-eyed and Painless.

A long-forgotten crack of grand proportions! Climbed first in 1984, this route was bold for it's time. Today, with more modern technology, not much has changed.

Begin climbing off the ground using a left-leaning, recessed "staircase" to gain the the route's token crack. From here follow the seam up and right through the crux to a good rest. Continue following the crack up and right until another rest awaits below the roof. Pull the roof and climb an easy, runout face to the anchor of

Modest Man from Mandrake

.

This route starts off the ground in the clearing just below

Modest Man from Mandrak

e

's upper ledge scramble. Look for the ledge system that starts immediately before the

MMFM

ledge scramble blocks.

Easy, straightforward, nice warmup. Its neighbors are Launch on the left and Stun the Hun on the right.

East of the main wall and in front of it is a small slab, with a short offwidth.  Not an exposed climb.... but a good practice off-width.  For those that enjoy blood on their bodies, have fun.

This climbs the deep right-facing right-trending corner/overhang in the center of the wall.  It stays in the crack, not turning the roof and manages to annoy with bad climbing and lots of webs.  Avoid it, unless you like that sort of thing.  A top-rope is not recommended.

Description

Protection

Routes in Dogwood Crag