This route ascends the middle face between "Directchossimo" and "Psmead" at the lower solarium area. This the face adjacent from Shocker that doesn't get alot of traffic.

Russian Meteors starts on a huge dangling and intimidating looking flake (it's actually not hard). Clip the first bolt on the dangling flake and stand up tall to clip the 2nd bolt. from here do some hard moves 11+/12a to reach a jug and clip the 3rd bolt. Climb an amazing face (10+) for a long ways that meets with the last 2 bolts of Psmead (11b). clip the last 2 bolts of psmead (possibly with long runners) as well as the Psmead anchor and continue for 5 more bolts into an ever steepening headwall with a crux before the anchor. Grab an improbable looking crescent arch jug hold and clip the chains.

Russian Meteors

Direchossimo

Hocus Pocus

Shocker

Psmead

I have never seen anyone on this route but the Lewis Guide gives it 3 stars and now I understand the reasons for both. This route is both amazing and a choss pile. Hard from the start and fairly continuous from the ground to the 4th bolt then the fun begins. It takes a sinuous path as you avoid the choss working your way from one incut jug to the next then finishes with a steep jug haul to the chains. This route is not for everyone. Expect mostly avoidable crumbly holds throughout. With deliberate and precise movement the crumbly holds can be avoided although the incut jugs you are pulling on will probably contain a bit of gravel that they have collected.

Start as for Shocker, break right after the second bolt. Steep face climbing with a reachy & bouldery crux.

Somewhat contrived, as the good climbing clearly stays a ways from the nearby chossy chimney, but the climbing can be made significantly easier/less sustained if one were to venture right at times...

Stamina climbing up to a shouldery crux.  Top is a bit pumpy and sporty.

Stick clip highly recommended, as getting to the first bolt might be the hardest part of the route. Interesting climbing on a variety of hold types makes this route worth doing at least once. The cruxes are well-protected, though the bolts might seem farther apart than average at times. Despite how old this route is, it doesn't seem to get climbed much, and there are still some loose holds to watch out for.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Stockade