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Peak Mountain 3

Higher Stannard

FA Jim McCarthy, John Stannard, 1967
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is located about 10-15' to the right of Something Interesting. It is rated 5.9-, but is a very exciting lead for 5.9. Everything is there, and the pro shows up when you need it.

P1: There are a couple of different starts. The face start to the right of the tree is probably the best: bust a few reachy thin moves on obvious crimps before you get your first gear in. Alternatively, start to the left of the tree just left of a left-leaning 2" overhanging ramp, and aim rightwards.

Make thin moves towards a thin seam about 40' up, with tough balancy moves. After the seam, traverse to the right to a right-facing dihedral. Climb this through a double overhang (tiny cam), to bolt anchors. 5.9-, 80'.

P2: Traverse right around the corner, and head up to the GT ledge. 5.5, 80'. Follow easier climbing to the top, then rap the bolted line over Three Pines.

Protection

Standard Rack, extra small cams.