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Peak Mountain 3

Green Sleeves

FA Ed Webster and Henry Browning, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Green Sleeves is on Steve Levin's obscure tour and is well worth seeking out. The variation to

The Green Spur

is worth doing once but is not the same quality as the regular route. The 5.10 finger crack on the crux pitch is amazing, though. Starting this route with

Grandmother's Challenge

or

The Green Spur

would be a great outing.

P1/2: follow

The Green Spur

up to the crux dihedral. Break out left, and follow discontinuous cracks to the Red Ledge (5.9+, 195 feet).

P3: scramble along the ledge and around the corner to the left and belay on the ledge below the start of

Green Slab Direct's

3rd pitch. Watch out for loose rock (5.3, 120 feet).

P4: angle left to the arete and follow face/cracks to a new bolt (2015). This bolt protects the face moves to the right. Gain an amazing finger crack with great locks and a few tricky moves to the

Green Slab Direct's

belay stance (5.10c, 150 feet).

P5: pick an easy crack system to the top. There are two variations to choose from (5.6, 150 feet).

Location

The start shares the first 120 feet of

Green Spur

.

Protection

The crux pitch requires at least a double set of small cams and a set of RPs. Two #1 Camalots were also handy on this pitch.