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Peak Mountain 3

Sendero Luminoso

FA Joe Rousek & Robert Parker - 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This fun arete climb offers great position and a challenging surprise at the end. It takes the main arete of the Solarium buttress. Climb an easy and completely unprotected ramp up and left towards the arete, or head up the direct start (which has one bolt) at 5.10b. The direct start is nicer but it forces your belayer to stand in an annoyingly loose slope of scree. Exercise caution making the first clip if doing the direct start, and falling before clipping the next bolt, from either start, would be very, very bad. But don't worry; the climbing is easy. Continue up the face just right of the arete until you move left around the arete to start climbing the fun slab where the climb changes character unexpectedly!

Protection

A dozen draws or so. A 70m rope allows a margin of safety; it might not be possible to lower off with a 60m if the draws are all clipped (a 60m is sufficient for rapping, however).