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Peak Mountain 3

Shirley You Can't Be Serious

FA Chris Tirrell
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route adds an easier start and a hard variation finish to the classic pitch "Shirley" at the LTW.

First clip a bolt and climb up into the corner system right of Shirley. When that corner ends place a thin piece or two and step left to rejoin Shirley. This start is approximately 10+.

Next climb Shirley into the hand-jam pod below the crux stemming on that route. Reach left and clip a bolt out on the arete, then down-climb until both hands are on the jug flake on the left side of the Shirley pillar. From here, climb up and left into the oblique dihedral past two more bolts, encountering two distinct boulder problems on the way to the NAD ledge.

I found this route to be a bit harder than its neighbor, Narrow Arrow Direct, but not as hard as the Narrow Arrow Overhang. While the crux section is short the climbing is powerful and sustained with good movement and the rig makes a nice addition to the hard climbing at the wall.

Location

Start in the corner system right of Shirley, finish on the NAD ledge.

Protection

4 bolts plus gear for Shirley. 2-bolt anchor with chain on top.