Thieves in the Temple

This is apparently the first free route on the wall and the first new route since 1961. We were there 8 days when cass and casey showed up. They asked us many questions about our route. Where we would post it? Here it is. We summited on the Aug 8th via a 700' splitter on the right side of the wall. We initially looked at the N. West face route, but the many undone splitters quickly lured us away. After sending we watched the other team's progress and talked to them every day when they came down from all day bolting sessions8. They were worried about the last pitch and told us if it turned out to be 5.13 they'd be back in a week to continue. We couldn't see them when they summited, but could hear them well. Someone on the summit asked them if it was the ffa of the wall and they said no, those guys down there did it a few days ago.

Pitch 1  160' 11a R. Climb the splitter for 100 at about 10a. The last 60' are steep with sparse gear.

Pitch 2 80' 10a climb up the left facing diehedral through a roof.

Pitch 3 100' 10a climb a right angling crack into a right facing diehedral.

Pitch 4 120' 10a obvious wide crack

Pitch 5 165' 11c left facing diehedral on perfect stone.

Pitch 6 80' 12a climb through the crux roof on clean wonderful holds and keep it together for a final crux.

The right side of the N. west face pf East Temple Peak

Standard mountain rack up to #3