- Edit (TBD)
Description
If you find yourself in Hueco itching to climb on gear (haha), this is a fantastic crack set back inside a massive corridor/ cave. I spent several hours cleaning this crack, so doubt if it has seen an accent in many many years. That said, its clean now and climbs and protects well. One of the most uniform cracks in Hueco. Climb up a easy wide flare with a crack in the back (optional #4) to the beautiful finger crack splitting a varnished streaked panel. Goes from fingers down to tips before you can throw a foot out and stem the massive chalkstone to the left. Finish by stepping left onto the chalkstone when the crack ends. No bolts, so bring a #4, #3, and 0.75 to build an anchor up above the crack. Walk off to the north toward the asylum. This climb is briefly detailed in the older Sherman guide to my understanding. FA?
Location
Luther is set back inside a missive L shaped corridor immediately north of the Dab boulder. Locate the gazebo with the climbing history sign and follow a little rock lined trail into the big corridor. Scramble up a few boulders and Luther will be on the left, very obvious. The word "rascal" is spray painted at the base of the crack.
Protection
Lots of fingers down to tips. Doubles 0.2 to #0.75 BD Single #1, #2, #3, possible #4 for the beginning. Bring a #4, #3, and 0.75 for the anchor up top. There are not many other options for an anchor.