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Peak Mountain 3

North Face Var. Right (Directisimo)

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Description

Begin at the notch between concord tower and liberty bell. Follow a crack system to a large ledge with some small trees (5.6), P1 of the standard N. Face rte. From here, pitch two continues up right to a striking vertical crack. Follow the crack up until the climbing grows strenuous. Traverse up and left across a face, aiming for the huge boulder/chockstone slung with tat. (5.8) Expect rope drag on this long and wandering pitch. The ledge behind the boulder provides an adequate belay station. Climb up and left, following the bolted ramp to the summit (5.easy)

Location

Begins as for the

standard north face route

. Rappel is possible down either the north or south faces of concord tower. Single-rope rappels are possible on the north face, but may be uncomfortable. Single rope rappels are strongly recommended on the south face, as ropes tend to stick on the edge.

Protection

Gear to 3". Many bring a 4" cam. Bolts on P3. Rap chains on summit.

60-70m rope