- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start on a dirty 5.10 slab/corner which is sometimes wet. Gain a ledge after the second bolt where you can stand/sit. From here, about 6 easy moves on jugs lead you directly into a very hard move off of a terrible and sharp left hand gaston. This move alone is probably a single move V9. Once stuck, clip the next bolt, and without rest launch into another powerful v7 sequence involving a huge span to a diagonal crimp rail/sidepull. An easy match and a fun dyno to a jug means you have sent! 2 more bolts of 5.10 to the anchors.
This route deserves more traffic. Every draw in the hard section can be pre hung with a stick clip by standing on the boulder across from the route. I recommend a long sling on the 2nd to last bolt.
Location
Grotto. Left of Valentine's Day Massacre. Starts in the bottom of the cave.
Protection
7 bolts and anchors. A long sling on bolts 2 and 6 are recommended.
Routes in Grotto
- 10Silence Between the Violence5.13dSport