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Peak Mountain 3

Don Julio

FA David Tellechea, Ethan Sandoval
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1.   Start next to Agave and tree under the big chimney.   Climb blocky terrain up to a ledge and belay. (.7/.8)Pitch 2.  Follow a series of double cracks. (.10)  Hand jams and laybacks until you reach a short .9 chimney to reach the “ Agave ledge “Pitch 3.  Keep following the crack system up to the overhanging hand crack.   Good quality jamming and stemming on this pitch.  On the FA, the last 10 feet of this pitch were aided to avoid and clean rockfall potential. (.10+/.11)Belay at the good stance under the “Sardine Roof”

Pitch 4.  C1 traverse under the roof. A bolt will be added later to this section as well as a 2 bolt anchor below the roof.   Free variation would likely go in the .9/10 range. Pitch 5.  Scramble to the true summit and down climb. The top of this tower is so small that one at a time works best.  enjoy !

Location

You can see the wall from finger rock. 10 minutes down the gully and you’re there.

Protection

2 ropes and standard doubles. One number 4/5

cam

Descent :  Pine tree at the summit. 2 60 meters will take you to the next ledge below a huge roof. 

One more single rap to your packs.


Routes in Prominent Point Cliffs (Don Julio Wall )


  1. 1
    Don Julio
    5.10+
    Trad · Aid