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Peak Mountain 3

Captain Crush

FA Dennis Buice, Seth Tart
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Captain Crush is a straight shot, splinter line up some of the best stone at Cooks through technical face and multiple roofs. It utilizes the excellent center roof of Wheaties while adding a more technical and cleaner start with the addition of an extra roof at the top for good measure.

Captain Crush simply forms an independent straight line up the inside right of the Green Eggs arete forming a stellar single pitch of climbing. Not to be mistaken as Wheaties, which forms a half loop that uses the start and finish of Tight Clam Bambi by traversing left at the second bolt (clipped on a 48” runner) and going out a sheet face to pull the large roof system before angling back right through a large diagonal crack feature to finish at the top of Tight Clam.

Walk to the lower part of the ledge just right of the prominent arete of the Breakfast Wall and stick clip the first bolt; which is a stainless steel glue in bolt. You'll ultimately climb past four bolts starting on a technical face followed by 2 tiered roofs. There is a sizable run to the anchors (a pair of old trad shuts) but a fall here would be very clean. Take a few cams for the top if it's too spooky for your taste.

Location

First route on the upper right side wall of the Breakfast Wall with Wave Bolts at the beginning.

Protection

Mixed w/ anchors.