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Peak Mountain 3

Gangsters

FA Randy Atkinson, Dean Hart, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Well worth seeking out this obscure trad line for some exciting thin cracks, steep face climbing and pumpy gear placing.

As you are climbing the face there is a fixed pin and a fixed nut at one of the crux spots. You can escape off to the arete, but the face climbing straight up to the anchor is good and protects well.

Location

The start is around the south toe end of Rattlesnake, just right of large Ponderosa pine in a rampy right facing crack system that is the Shakey Pine route. After about 50 feet instead of continuing up crack to the right, go straight up the steep yellow face.

Protection

gear to 1", offset small brass nuts and many small cams useful.

There is an old bolted anchor that will need slings to rap, or climb up and walk off the top.