We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Hyperbole

FA John Steiger, Brent Manning, August 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Hyperbole

takes on the series of overhangs between the

Direct North Ridge

to the left and

Look Who's Talking

to the right, starting right of the toe of the northeast buttress in the gully/wide chimney leading to the northwest face of Talk Buttress. The route is a little contrived and has a garden feature or two, but the position is great.

Hyperbole

and

Empty Rhetoric

(as well as the neighboring climbs on north face of Dead Snag) rarely see sun regardless of the time of day, so they're tolerable even in the dead heat of summer.

The first five bolts take a line just left of

Empty Rhetoric

. The climbing is a little devious getting from the first to the second bolt; if you're in the wrong place, it may be hard to clip the second bolt. The climbing eases up once past the second bolt.

Once on the large sloping ledge above the first five bolts, sling one the chains on the anchors for

Empty Rhetoric

and continue on past five more bolts to a second set of chains. On this latter section, stay out of the corners for a cleaner line, and at the fourth bolt above the sloping ledge, move right over the roof to find the next and last bolt before the final chains.

One can also break up the climb in two pitches by stopping at

Empty Rhetoric's

chains -- this reduces rope drag somewhat and makes for better visuals for the belayer, but doing it in one pitch is the way to go if longer draws are used.

Location

Follow the approach for

Direct North Ridge

, but head into the gully/wide chimney just right of the start of

DNR

and the bolts will be apparent. A 60 meter rope is sufficient to lower from the chains. When pulling the rope, it'll land on huge chockstones in the wide chimney that are loaded with bowling-ball size rocks; beware.

Protection

A dozen or so draws (including some longer ones) and one or two runners.