Elysian Buttress Original Route

The start of this route has several markers. There is a cairn made of rocks and a stick that more or less marks the base. Additionally to the route's right there are three fins of rock in a row.

Scramble up about 10 feet to the route's start. It helps rope management if the belayer scrambles up and sits on a fin of rock that is just left of the route's start.

Pitch 1 - 5.7+ Head straight up crack system until a 3.5 or 4 camalot placement is possible and where the crack "gooves out" above. At this point step down and traverse left on good but flexible holds. Look for a second crack system and take this until it is possible to traverse back right to the main system. Belay on a sloping ledge off small cams and slung horns and blocks. (~120')

Pitch 2 (5.6) - Head up off the belay using creative gear in horizontal cracks climbing to a leftward slanting ramp system. Climb this ramp until an exit right is available. Run out the rope to a nice ledge which is below and left of the Skyline Pitch. This belay takes small cams and stoppers. It is also possible to stay on the ramp/gully system and exit at the top next to a dead tree. From here one can climb up and right to the same belay ledge. (~200')

Pitch 3 (5.7+) - The Skyline Pitch. Climb up and right past a small hueco and around a corner. Find a thin crack with face holds and edges. Climb up this crack until it ends, then step up and left to a good crack which slopes up and right. Climb this crack to a flat spot below a chimney and belay of medium sized gear. (~100')

Pitch 4 (5.7+) - Climb chimney above belay surmounting small roof/chockstone at top. Above this climb easy 5.4 corner to a nice ledge with two bolts and belay. (These bolts mark the top of the third pitch of Mechanical Persistence and the second rappel anchor.) (~85')

Pitch 5 (5.6+) - Head up and left off the belay. It is tempting to clip the first bolt on Mechanical Persistence, but this will give you terrible rope drag later on. After climbing up about 15-20' traverse left across some ledges. At this point look for the second ramp cutting up and right. A nice finger to hands crack in this ramp will lead to the top and a two bolt rappel anchor. (~100')

Descent - From the final anchor rappel down the 4th pitch of Mechanical Persistence to the above mentioned rap anchor. From the second rap anchor (at the top of Elysian's 4th pitch) rap 70' down and right to a large ledge. Walk to the far side of this ledge and scramble down the gully and back to your packs.

Finding this route is the real crux. During the approach head for the largest lefthand buttress. If you find a black, dry waterfall, you are too far to the left and need to back track. Mechanical Persistence, an excellent four pitch sport climb, is about 100' to the right of the Elysian's first pitch.

1 set of stoppers 1 set TCU's or Alien's 1 set .5 to 3.5 Camalot (Old Sizes) 1 x 4 Camalot Optional Sings and Draws