Butterfingers Make Me Horny

This climbs the first easy looking crack right of the roofy area under a notch in the top of the formation. The first 10 feet are the crux - be careful mantling to get to the first gear placement. After pulling past the crux move on a good fingerlock, easy fun 5.6 jug hauling with bomber stoppers leads to a good ledge where a natural gear belay can be set. Scramble up and left to chains to rap or scramble off. This ledge can be reached with some exposure to set a TR, but this is an excellent beginners lead requiring only a set of stoppers.

The Vogel guidebook calls this 5.9 but it is a one move wonder, and that move didn't feel any harder than 5.8 Mostly fun 5.6

Stoppers, maybe tricams or small cams in the horizontal near the start.