- Edit (TBD)
Description
Location
This Ribbon of crack is visible from pretty much every vantage point along the crag and will have you immediately asking “When do we get to climb that line?” The climbing starts from the ledge on the east side of a leaning block of rock. Look for the bottom of 3 bolts, the belay stance is just below this.
It is due south facing, getting first morning sun and staying sunny long after the rest of the crag goes into shade. Cooler days, or late day sun is optimal for your send.
GMR is the last route on the wall, so walk to the end of the cliff where the bottom of the band of good welded-tuff gives way to soft ignimbrite deposits that are unclimbable.
Protection
Bring a single rack from 0.5 to #5 camalots with double 4’s. If you climb confident in the 4-6" crack size, you are set; if not, bring an extra 4 or 5. Also 2 red camalots for the belay anchor. Optionally, a few tips pieces would protect the traverse across.
Bring at least 5 draws, but maybe 7 or 8, including for the anchor, are preferable. Also, might be good to have extendable 2' draws at least on the second bolt and first cam placement to smooth out the traverse pendulum.
Routes in Main Sector
- 13Gold Medal Ribbon5.11Trad