- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb up through blocks and corners with occasional protection on moderate terrain (5.7) to reach lighter rock, which is very solid. Place a 0.5- 0.75 cam and then head up to the first bolt. Climb up and clip bolts through increasingly difficult terrain, reaching a thin and slightly off balance crux before lay-backing up pumpy a right-facing flake (optional large nut or small hex) to a ledge with a fixed anchor. Clip and belay or rap.
Location
This route climbs the prominent crack and flake system nearer the left edge of the South Face of this crag. There is a single bolted line to the left of there on slightly less clean terrain.
Protection
Light rack from 0.5-2" and some draws. A large stopper or small hex up top after the crux might reduce leg shake... and if so, a long sling would go with it. Rap from fixed anchors.