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Photo
MapDescription
This is a classic Vedauwoo OW. The crux is in the first 20 feet where the crack does a dogleg to the left and overhangs a bit.
Location
This is on the east side of Limbo Rock aka Upper Devil's Playground above a new 4 bolt sport route "
Formicae
." From the top of that route, go up and left into a hidden alcove with two OW cracks. The right one is Crack to Nowhere. Walk off to the north or find the rap station for "
Sara Palin's Drill
" a few feet to the SW.
Protection
#6 Camalot, Big Bros to 10 inches, a 14 inch Valley Giant or Big Bro for the top. It has natural anchors.