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MapDescription
The climb ascends a left-facing dihedral on the left side of the crag. A #2 RP protects the moves to the lone bolt (or stickclip). A technical stemming crux leads up the smooth dihedral past the bolt to 5.9 climbing with good protection. Finish over a tiny roof or bulge.
The crux bolt should be replaced, if it hasn't already. You have my permission to add a 2 bolt anchor at the top. This was the second 5.12 established in the canyon.
Location
It is right of
Ecstasy & Wise Guys
and left of
Albatross
.
Protection
1 bolt (1/4" diameter), a #2 RP (or BD steel nut), a #5 RP (#6 BD steel nut), and a #9 stopper to #1 Camalot.