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Peak Mountain 3

The Arete-Acal

FA Original Route: Brent & Nora Kertzman (1994) Extension: Andy Fitz & Tuck Russell (2011)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route used to end on a tiny ledge below a menacing block. Then the block found its way to the ground, clearing the way for the route to go full length.

Scamper up the crack to the right and stretch over to pre-clip the first bolt. Back on the ground, start directly under the roof at the bottom of the arete. The hardest crux is still getting past the first bolt, but the extension adds a second crux where the big block used to sit. In between is some fun technical edging and arete pulling. The route ends on a mini-freestanding summit; for a total alpine experience, balance up and raise your arms in victory.

Protection

12 bolts. Step across to anchor bolts about ten feet above and behind the summit. A 60 meter rope reaches the ground.