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Peak Mountain 3

The Shard of Glass

FA Ben albrecht , Phoenix Parker
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

If you have a thing for towers, adventurous climbing and choss, then this route will get you excited! You start on east side of the formation at the top of a gully that has a few climbs! Pass the gherkin and just beyond the tree you scramble past is the start of this climb. Start on face with broken finger crack, you must make a few moves to place some good gear. Climb the crack using good feet on the face to a bulge. You can continue through the dirty hand ish crack or step left on great feet and make some 5.easy moves with no pro to the same spot the crack ends! From this ledge make your way up the big boulder headed towards the ledge where the horizontal chimney like staircase begins. Face climb, walk, and eventually straddle, your way across the massive separated flake until you must make a few meters traverse to the anchors! Pitch 2: round the corner from the anchors is a chimney. Climb the chimney until your out of it then walk and scramble to the last few moves on jugs to summit

Location

Head to little England wall, once your approaching the wall in the scree chute you will see a path headed towards the main wall and one towards Palace of Westminster and a gully! Take the gully/POW trail and go all the way up the gully past A-1 steak sauce and the gherkin! About 30 past and up from the tree in front of gherkin the climb starts! You can see the tree from the scree chute! This climb is cool because you climb from the east side and summit on the west side. A trip around the tower, the fun way’ 

Protection

bolted anchor for pitch 1 and gear anchor for pitch 2! Fixed Rap gear on the east side of summit! Singles .3-.75, singles 1-6, set of nuts, fair amount of extensions, and a 70m rope! Decent is a single rope rap must have a 70m. A helmet is definitely something you’ll be glad you have!