- Edit (TBD)
Description
Both this route and "chock full o' nuts" can be climbed as one long route with a 70m rope or broken up into 2 pitches.
Location
starts right at the base of the boulder in the description in the guide book. P1 5.5PG (5.4R) Up the obvious crack onto the right rising ramp. Climb up right, then into a shallow v corner and up to a flaring crack, step up and right to a small ledge to find some pro before the run out slab. Step back left and up past a sill and a couple of nice pockets. P2 5.6 G Climb the hand crack up and then step left onto the steep slab with a dirty crack in the corner climb this to its top (beware of the loose block) wander up over a series of smaller walls and ledges to the top.
Rap off the tree anchor at the top. 70m rope is required to reach the midway rap anchors! From the mid anchors a 60m rope just reaches the ground.
Protection
Full rack of cams Doubles helpful up to 2". Pink tri-cam also useful.