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Peak Mountain 3

Fields of Gold

FA Bob D'Antonio and Ron Olsen, 9/15/07
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fields of Gold is a fun 3-pitch mixed route on the right end of Treasure Wall. The first pitch has some great slab climbing, the second pitch has a neat hand and fist crack and a steep buttress, and the third pitch is an easy romp to the top.

It's possible to climb just the first pitch, or just the first two pitches, and descend from bolt anchors, if you don't want to do the walk-off from the summit.

Start just right of

The Twilight Kid

, at a belay bolt by a big pine tree, next to a drop-off on the ledge.

P1: Traverse right and climb a slab (5.9) past three bolts. Continue up a left-facing corner to a small roof with a quartz band and traverse right to a ledge at the start of the upper slab. Don't take the corner all the way to its top or you'll get too high to traverse to the base of the upper slab. It's also possible to traverse right sooner and reach the upper slab more easily.

Climb the upper slab past three more bolts, with some tricky moves (5.10a) into a V-groove. Continue up a moderate finger crack to an anchor with lowering hooks at 100'. If you're just doing the first pitch, lower from here. 5.10a, 100'.

If you're doing the upper pitches, continue past the lowering anchor to a ledge, and traverse right about 20' to a two-bolt anchor just right of a dead pine tree. 5.10a, 135'.

P2. Climb up a short left-facing corner just right of the anchor, and step right to a beautiful hand and fist crack. Climb the crack to a flake at its top. Step onto the top of the flake and clip a bolt on the buttress above. Climb the airy buttress past two bolts (5.9) and continue to a big ledge and a two-bolt anchor. 5.9, 95'.

It's possible to rappel from here:

  1. Rap 90' from the top of P2 to the start of P2.

  2. Downclimb 35' (on belay) to the P1 anchor at 100'

  3. Rap 100' back to the start.

If you're continuing on to the summit:

P3. Climb an easy finger crack to a ledge with a big pine tree. Cross the ledge, move right and climb a headwall with hand cracks to the summit area. Belay at a 15'-tall pine tree. 5.5, 140'.

Descent: Go south to a notch at the back of the tower, and descend to the east (left).

Location

Take the Treasure Wall approach. Hike right up the hill about 50' to a big pine tree on the highest ledge. Start at a belay bolt just right of the tree. This is a few feet right of

The Twilight Kid

.

Eds. the beta photos have been deleted by their submitter.

Protection

P1: 6 bolts and gear to a #1 Camalot. 2-bolt lowering anchor at 100'. 2-bolt belay anchor at 135'.

P2: 2 bolts and gear to a #3 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.

P3: Gear to a #2 Camalot. Belay from a 15'-tall pine tree at the top.